A Newb's Foray Into Miniature Painting

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    • A Newb's Foray Into Miniature Painting

      So, I finally have some minis. I recently got those halfling minis from that kickstarter, as well as that mini from Shieldwolf Miniatures... Now what?

      Yes, I have no idea what I am doing. I don't know what paints to use, how to prep the minis, or even what tools are needed. I am a complete and utter newb. So please help. Seriously...

      Recommendations for the following would be appreciated:
      Starter Kits
      Tutorials (of any variety)

      Also, just outright instructing me yourselves is welcome. Just do be polite and patient, while doing so.

      Oh, I almost forgot, the models are not the made of the same material. The halfling miniatures are metal, and the Shieldwolf Miniature is Resin... So that will probably complicate things...

      Pictures will hopefully follow, assuming I can figure out how to get the camera on my laptop working... Or I could just get off my butt and purchase a proper camera... Meh.

      Consequently, whatever I produce will probably look like a horrible mess. So if anyone reading this is expecting to see a masterpiece, you better move on. Whatever I paint could very well not ONLY look terrible, but also cause sanity damage.

      So, goodbye for now. God bless. Keep the dice rolling, the paints drying, and don't let the gobbos stick ya... Unless YOU are one of the gobbos, then... Well... Good luck?

      Campaign Team

    • Okay some basic tips for a starting modeller:

      Step 1: Tools:

      There are some things that every kind of modeller should have:
      1. Sharp hobby knife like this waylandgames.co.uk/army-painte…517-precision-hobby-knife to remove moldlines and cut away anything you dont want or need. Be careful with these because they really are sharp and you can get nasty cuts if you slip.
      2. Hobby clippers. Best way to remove things off a sprue. Dont twist or pull the parts off the sprue because you will damage them. Just use clippers or the hobby knife.
      3. Tiny drill: very useful for pinning model parts.
      4. A mat or some other protective surface. You will need it to keep your desk clean and undamaged.
      5. Greenstuff: some of the best stuff you can use to fill cracks in the models, to help annoying pieces stick where they should and for converting/sculpting your models.
      6. Sculpting tools: not really needed if you aren't into sculpting that much but they come in handy to get that greenstuff where it has to be.
      7. Glue: there are 3 main types of glue you will need: Super glue for glueing resin and metal, Plastic glue for glueing plastic models and PVA glue for basing mostly.
      8. (White) Light: make sure that wherever you paint you have good lightin. Natural / white light is the best choice because the light has a significant effect on the color of your paint. Painting in yellow light and then looking at it with white light and you will see the difference.
      Step 2: prepping your models:

      So you got your models and you are ready to work on them. Use clippers or a knife to remove them from the sprues. Lay out your parts and remove moldlines. Easiest way to do this is basically scrape them off with a hobby knife. Be careful though as it is easy to scrape off too much or damage the part, especially when plastic or resin. This method also works on metal models but those are a bit harder obviously.

      Now before you go ahead and glue the lot together you need to rinse the models in water with dishwater soap. This is because the inside of the moulds is sprayed with a releasing agent to make sure that the parts come out after the casting process. This however leaves a residue on the models which affects how well paint adheres to the surface. This is mostly a problem with metal and resin models, doesn't seem to be a big issue with plastic models. I just drop the model(parts) in a jar with some soapy water and leave them in there for a couple of hours. Just make sure you rinse them off properly after you take them out.

      Part 3: assembly:

      So moldlines are removed, parts are rinsed time for assembly. Assembly depends a bit on the kind of model you have. Metal models tend to be a bit harder to fit properly. The parts are heavier so harder for glue and it can turn real messy real fast. I tend to do a lot of pinning on metal models, especially if its a larger/heavier model.

      When glueing you use superglue to glue metal models. Keep in mind that because the weight you will have to hold the part still for a while. Resin works the same. Plastic on the other hand is better glued with plastic glue. Plastic glue melts the plastic around it and basically fuses the two parts together forming a very strong bond which is hard to remove afterwards.

      There are times where it is easier to not assemble the full model before painting. Mostly when there are shields involved. In cases like that it is better to leave the shields unattached and to paint them seperately.

      Step 4: Painting

      Always prime your models. Priming a very important step because it gives your paint something to adhere to.

      General painting tips:
      1. Dilute your paints! It is better to have 2-3 thin coats than 1 thick coat. The thicker your caots the more detail you will lose. You want to have your paint to be around the consistency of milk sort of. It is something you learn by experience.
      2. Be patient! Make sure every layer is dry before you put a new layer on the model. There are painting techniques (wet blending) that ignore this principle but those are pretty advanced so not for new painters.
      3. Washing and Drybrushing are some very useful tricks that can make your model pop when used correctly. Drybrushing is when you take some paint on your brush (non diluted) and then rub 95% of it off with some paper. Then you go over the model in strokes. Whatever paint is left on the brush will go mostly on the raised areas of the model. Washing is the other way around, you dilute your paint to the point its almost water and you brush it over your model. The wash will set in the lower/deeper parts of the model. A combination of a basecoat with a wash and drybrush can make for some decent tabletop models.
      4. Practice! Painting takes time to learn, I myself am still learning with every project. Keep at it and you will improve!
      I am planning to get a "beginners guide to modelling" thread set up where I will put up some pictures aswell and go indepth on some of the thingies. If you have questions, feel free to ask!
      Help me get some pictures of my lava SA in the official book!
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