Articles by Kapten Kluns 8

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  • Hello fellow wargamers. I think that it is time for another article about what to use while sculpting.
    There are loads of schools on the subject and a whole lot of know how to´s but what can be found amongst all proffesional sculpters? Tools!
    And with me this time I have the amazing @ROTTEN_FACTORY who will show us what they work with.
    So tag along and we shall see what they use for their line of work.

    rottenfactory.eu/blog/wp-conte…17/02/TUTOSS-768x5324.png


    Gets you excited doesnt it?
    Ofc all of the praise goes to @ROTTEN_FACTORY for the content of this article and hey, why not check them out.
    They are amazing at what they do!


    Cheers/ Kapten. [Read More]
  • Hello fellow wargamers. As earlier stated I have talked with some people who are dwelling on the forums and in the realm of men and something which seems to be in high demand is how to paint and mimic different effects. I will start a series of articles tackling how to mimic some of the effects which we see in fantasy wargames. This will include rust, gold, steel, glow, slime, frost effects and much much more.

    This time the topic will be a tutorial about NMM (Non metallic metal)
    Gold effect. Yes you heard me! It is finally here, the golden hour of painting tips.

    First I start of by choosing the tone for my NMM Gold, I prefer a dark gold with warm shadow parts that go through a lot of changes going all the way into a bright white.

    The colour palate i chose is.
    Rhinox hide as a base colour (It is a really dark brown with a warm reddish colour to it) Next is Zamesi desert (It is a really dirk yellow brown, you may think of sand colour) then we go Flash Gitz Yellow ( A truly bright yellow colour) And we top it of with Ceramite White (A cold white colour)

    Quick and easy I just paint on a 100% base color of Rhinox hide. Nothing more nothing less.

    The next step is to choose where your "lighting source" is coming from, since you are not using real metallic paint you will not be receiving a reflection of light on the painted area, thanks to this we need to mimic the reflection of light and hence we must choose a direction from which the light is coming from. I choose that my models light came from above, infront and a bit from the left.

    Third up I start to work my way towards the source of the light. I add a mixture of 30-40% zamsi desert to my Rhinox hide, this is painted unto aproximately 70% of the area.

    Next step I add another 20% zamsi desert and 20% Flash gitz yellow, I narrow down the area I cover to about 60%

    It will become a little bit repetative from this point on but bear with me .
    I add another 50% of Flash Gitz Yellow to my mixture and cover probably 45% of the area with this one (Always work towards the chosen spot of your highlight spot)

    Next step I abandon my mixture of colour (always a sad step...) And go for a pure Flash gitz Yellow. This is painted to a 20% bit of the choosen area.

    I work in a 50% Ceramite white into the mixture and go for only 10% of my choosen area, this step will leave it looking like it is really bright on the top but lets go for the extreme!

    Take pure Ceramite white and add only about 5-10% of the previous mixture into it. This will leave a slightly yellowish white for you to work on. Take the new mixture and add only a small dot of it onto the absolute edge of your highlight. This should only cover about 1-5% of the chosen area.


    You have now created a colourful golden NMM which go all the way from a dark warm brown into a cold white colour.
    You can be proud, you can be stoic, you can be golden!

    Now you know how to do NMM Gold and from this moment on everything you touch will be golden, your golden armies awaits you young Midas!

    Last but not least if you have any questions about what I do or how I do it just drop a comment. Or even better if you wish to teach me something, im all ears.

    Cheers! :clapping: [Read More]
  • Hello fellow wargamers, I have talked with some people venturing onto the forums and in the real realm and something which seems to be in high demand is how to paint and mimic different effects. I will start a series of articles tackling how to mimic some of the effects which we see in fantasy wargames. This will include rust, gold, steel, glow, slime, frost effects and much much more.

    Todays topic will be a tutorial about NMM (Non metallic metal) Steel effect. This just as with the rust effect is an easy techique but it is time consuming in comparison. So buckle up and here we go.

    First I start of by choosing the tone for my NMM steel, normal to choose here is to either do a grey scale tone or a blue scale tone since they remind us of steel in real life.

    I choose to do a blue steel tone and for the base coat I use a mixture of GWs Fenrisian grey, Temple guard blue and Abaddon black. The amounts of every color is not 100% important but I try to keep Fenrisian grey and Temple guard blue about the same amount for the base coat and the black just a little less. So maybe something like 35%-35%-30% or 40%-40%-20%. This is just done to get a dark grey with a hint of blue in it to work from.


    The next step is to choose where your "lighting source" is coming from, since you are not using real metallic paint you will not be recieving a reflection of light on the painted area, thanks to this we need to mimmick the reflection of light and hence we must choose a direction from which the light is coming form. I choose that my models light came from above and infront.

    I then add a little Temple guard blue into the mixture, just enough for it to get a slight color change to a bluer color.
    Then I paint a rather broad layer of the new mixture, it is wide enough to cover the entire area on which my imaginary light will fall upon.

    From this point onward I just repeat the earlier step with adding Temple guard blue and with every step I paint the line a little bit thinner so it narrows down.




    When I have reached a clear Temple guard blue I add a little bit of Ceramite white and repeat the earlier steps with thinner lines. A good rule of thumb is that when you have started to mix white into the paint you are nearly done and the line is almost as thin as you can make it.



    Last step of highlight is to do a small dot of white as a finishing touch to the highlight.

    Now we work backwards. Mix the base coat colour but with more black in it this time 33%-33%-33% is a good mix. Work this darker mix into cracks and shadowy areas to give the NMM a deeper look and more contrast. The reason I work this way is that I want the highlights to be the main focus of my piece and if I start from a darker tone I often end up with a darker overall modell thanks to the highlighting becoming to thin before I reach the end.



    I never work this darker layer all the way to pure black but I go rather dark with small additions of more black into the mixture, but hey try out what works for you =).

    Now you know how to do NMM steel or Blue steel if you so wishes!

    And as stated it is an easy but somewhat time consuming technique, it does however give a great look on the table and can be done with fewer or more steps with finer tone changes than I have done or rough NMM for massed infantry. Its all up to you to create the army of youre dreams!

    Last but not least if you have any questions about what I do or how I do it just drop a comment. Or even better if you wish to teach me something, im all ears.

    Cheers! [Read More]
  • Hello fellow wargamers, I have talked with some people venturing onto the forums and in the real realm and something which seems to be in high demand is how to paint and mimic different effects. I will start a series of articles tackling how to mimic some of the effects which we see in fantasy wargames. This will include rust, gold, steel, glow, slime, frost effects and much much more.

    Todays topic will be how to do a fast and simple rust effect which will look great on the table.
    I will be using an old beastmen mini which I have sprayed white and the following paints.



    I start off with painting a basecoat of Rhinox hide brown. This is done with a watered down paint, 60-40% paint-water.

    After that I dry brush a medium thick layer of mournfang brown over the Rhinox hide. I do not water down the color and I use a piece of flat paper to brush off almost all the paint so that only dry pigments remain from the color. I mostly aim at the edges of the halberd.

    After that I do a fine layer of dry brushed Blazing orange. I use the same technique as with the Mournfang brown with brushing off all the paint except the dry pigments but I put less pressure when applying the pigments.

    If you so wish you can be done here, you will have an easy painting scheme for rust which looks okay. But we will go deeper and add small chips and scratches on the edge of the halberd.
    I take the Boltgun metal and do thin lines to represent the weapon being used even though it is rusty. Do the lines at an angle that represents how the weapon has been used.

    Next I go back a colour to the Blazing orange and drybrush it carefully over the newly painted bolt gun metal.

    After this I redo my earlier step with the metal paint but now I use mithril mail and I do even thinner and fewer scratches and chips.

    Once again you are at a cross roads where you could call it a day. But to make it really weathered and neglected we will go one step further.
    I will be using Sotek green and really water it down. 30-70 paint to water. This way it will almost give it a wash like substance and I will put the sotek green in cracks and lower parts of the halberd.
    And this is the finished look.

    As you can see it is quite an easy effect to do with little precision involved. Painting should mostly be fun and with an easy way like this to do believable rust effects you can easily do your own evil army based around such a theme.

    Last but not least if you have any questions about what I do or how I do it just drop a comment. Or even better if you wish to teach me something, im all ears.

    Cheers! :beer: [Read More]
  • Hello fellow wargamers, once again I hope you will find this article about hobbying useful. This time it will be about green
    stuff and more specific how to do a green stuff mold for easy use.
    Why create a mold you ask? Well it is easy to do multiple copies with a similar result for say shield or bases, those two examples are what I will explain in a closer look shortly.

    I will start with the shield example.

    First I gather my materials and tools. Green stuff, cotton tops, hard piece of card board (which I have cut into my prefered size), piece of sprue plastic packing, my sculpting tools and a Dwarven face icon which I attatched a steel wire to the back as a stamp.

    Then I do a quick design sketch.

    Mix a ball of greenstuff, flatten it over a round base (good hard surface which I can hold on to).

    Use my card board stamp

    Cut of a piece of the spure plastic package into a thin piece which i can bend between my fingers to form different shapes and angles.

    Deepen the edges around my stamped form, this will later on be the outer edge of the shield.

    Use my dwarven icon stamp to make a centre piece.

    Use the same spure plastic package to do an inner circle around the dwarven icon.

    I cut the cotton tops straight off and made some gem holes

    Used a combination of the spure plastic package and my sculpting tools to draw some simple runic shapes.

    Repeat the same step as before only with adding an outer circle made of small cuts.

    Really runed up the piece with the help of my thinnest sculpting tool.


    Later on I used a pencil with a round top to revert the balls made from my cotton tops tip. Making them point inwards since it is a mold.
    This was the last step of the mold and what I realised afterwards is that I would have made my markings a little bit deeper and a little bit wider. Doing so helps with keeping the details of finished product better.


    Next up after this mold had dried after about 18 hours I proceeded with forming another piece of green stuff.


    Flattening it out and oiling it up, both sides of it. Rubbing your oiled fingers in circular movement help to remove finger prints from the green stuff.
    Then I just press the rounded green stuff into the mold and let it dry for 12-24 hours.


    Finished product after washing with soap and lukewarm water.

    I cut the edges off using a scalpel to do so, then with a fine grained rasp I took away rough edges all around the outer edge.


    Looking at it finished I wasnt pleased with the gems so I added green stuff to then and once it dryes up it will be 100% finished. This was my first ever shield done and I am about 80% happy with the result.
    If you ignore the time spent with green stuff drying it took about 30-40 mins to do the mold and about 10 minuts to mold the shield. So not alot at all =).



    Next up is the bases.
    I start with building my base prototype out of household magnets meant for refrigerator use. They are about the right shape and are hard but easily cut. I glue them slightly onto a 40x40mm base and lets it dry.


    Next up I form a fairly decent sized ball of grey stuff and when I am finished with oiling up the prototype base I push the grey stuff over it and press hard while I enclose the whole base. Once it had dried after 12 hours or so this was the finished product.


    I form another piece of grey stuff and form it into the shape of a square roughly the shape of a 40x40 mm base. I place it inside of the mold and with the help of my sculpting tools I force an even layer of grey stuff into the entire mold and into all the edges and sides. One I tip I can give is to use an empty base to push the grey stuff into the mold, it gives an even and flat surface. Let it dry for about 12 hours

    Once dried I removed any bits of left over edges or excess grey stuff, glue it onto a base and add eventual bits to give it a less plain look.


    I used wooden glue and fine sand on the other part of the base and once this had dried I used a fine coat of matt varnish to seal in the sand and harden the surface of the entire model.



    This is what a finished base looks like and once you make several you get an unique looking unit.

    And with your own painting theme they can look great.


    These green stuff examples were made with very little knowledge (the bases were my second ever mold made bases, and the shield was my first attempt) so you do not have to be an expert on anything, and as always not a lot of expense was used in making these, it was all cheap, and it was fun to do.

    Last but not least if you have any questions about what I do or how I do it just drop a comment. Or even better if you wish to teach me something, im all ears. And if you try these out and want to show your results, then send me a picture, I will add them to another article later on and tell everybody about your success.

    Cheers! [Read More]
  • Hello fellow wargamers. Now we are at the finish line of this three part series of articles about tools.
    This time I will show you what you might need to finish your new models and how to use the proper tools.
    As the aim for these articles has been about the base knowledge and that everything can be affordable, I guess I will continue down that road!

    This is the part of the hobby where you make your models come to life by mimicking colour, shadows and light through paint. It can be the most rewarding part of the hobby since there is an endless amount of ideas which can be brought to life through technique and experience. A quick and basic paint job can be efficient and look good but spending time on your models and practicing new things can be extremely rewarding and make your models look amazing.

    Beneath you will see 11 different set of tools to start and finish painting.


    First up is preparation through varnish and the base coat. I use the spray showed below to preharden different materials which I feel are too soft to hold through gameplay. When using these always read the bottle/can but that would leave me without work. So you shake the bottle/can 2-3 minutes and spray a thin layer with 20-40cm between the model and bottle/can, then let it dry for 15-20 minutes.
    For the base coat there are an abundance of colours which you can choose, however black or white is most common. I usually go with white since it is easier to do covering paint layers over white than black and it makes colours slightly brighter and can help to make the unit stand out or 'pop'. As with the varnish. Shake the bottle/can 2-3 minutes and spray a thin layer with 20-40cm between the model and bottle, then let it dry for 15-20 minutes.
    Where to put the miniatures while drying? I have currently used three different ways. Models already glued to their base can stand on their own, you can glue them to a wine cork or attach a wire to their feet through a small drilled hole (so you can hold them and they can be stored upright).


    Next up are the paints, these can be bought through different brands but the two most common seem to be the Citadel range (Games Workshop) and the Vallejo range. The paints you need are more in line with what theme you want for your army. Some tips though, white is for me by far the most useful paint since it can be mixed with any other colour to give it a brighter look.
    Use a medium to thin out your paints to give you an even and thin layer, since the theme of these articles is cheap and easy tips, what is cheaper and easier than water? So I use water as a medium .
    Remember to use clean water and clean brushes. And if you are not pleased with the pigments of a colour you can always mix two of them together to achieve your own unique colour.


    After the base coat or during the actual painting process we can use something called washes, these paints are really fluid and hence their properties are to flow into the deeper parts of the details of the model. These are most often used to create shadows or darker colours with a natural blend to it.


    So what do you need to mix colours? Well a palette and a water container, I picked up my palette from some old childhood paint set which had long ago dried up. So once again nothing fancy is needed to paint well.


    The actual tools I use for painting can be put in 5 different sub categories.

    First are the brushes to the left, they are used to mix paint and water together or to do fast and sloppy base coats with a single colour covering the entire model or large areas of the model, these brushes are the work horses of my craft.

    Second from the left is a so called drybrush. It is used to make a random look on edges of a model thanks to the brushes thick and stiff hairs. With a little colour only on the top of the brush, I then smudge on a piece of flat paper to when nearly no paint is left (only dry pigments). Then I apply it to the model by using wide brush strokes against (not in line with) sharp edges on details, this will scrape of pigments onto the model and give it a random and edged look (I use this for rust effects and dirt for details on bases and the likes)

    Thirdly I have my detailed brushes in different forms, they go from a normal wide brush to a really fine thin brush. These are used for actual painting of details and highlights. One tip is to never get colour on more than 50% of the hairs of the brush, this is to lengthen the lifespan of your brush since dried paint might stick to the metal part holding the brushes hairs (the ferule).

    Forth on the brush range is a brush I actually do not use for painting . As some might know there might be days, weeks or even months and in some cases years between when you will actually paint on a model which is already primed with a basecoat. This can build up a layer of dust, so I use a thick but really soft brush with long hairs to swipe the modell clean of dust.

    Last but not least I use two different pieces of… [Read More]
  • Hello fellow wargamers.
    I hope you have had some time to search through your living quarters for some modelling equipment and materials.
    This time I will be showing you what you might need for an easy to start sculpting hobby. As before they are all cheap and none of the technique´s I am using are hard to learn. So without further ado here is the second part of the three part Article about Tools.
    Enjoy.

    Sculpting.

    This is a part of the hobby which is the least used way to distinguish your models from their original look, but it is also the part which can give the greatest results in this manner.
    The picture below shows 15 different objects and i will hopefully show just how simple it is to get started with sculpting "aka greenstuff" and convince you to give it a go yourself.

    First I would like to explain the different materials I use for sculpting and their properties.


    Green stuff, which is the two part modelling putty that is blue and yellow. When mixed together in equal amounts (no worries it doesnt need to be exact) it forms a green putty which hardens (slowly) over time. The putty while working with and when hardened has slightly rounder and softer edges and details, so it does really well when you are doing organic details. When you have mixed the greenstuff together you have approximately 60-90 minutes to work with it. The time for green stuff to harden is about 5-6 hours and to fully set in and be solid id say 24 hours. One good detail about the greenstuff is that it doesn´t shrink during its hardening period such as glues do.


    Grey stuff, the black and white putty that forms the grey stuff in the same manner as green stuff. It is slightly harder when done, this gives sharper edges and better durability to the sculpt and thus making it perfect for metal details and when doing molds and such. It has the same time frame for you to work with as green stuff and has the same hardening time. It also does not shrink during hardening.


    I cut both of my putty´s with the same plastic knife (Not even needed but it was bought as one item of a larger pack which became really unnecessary for my needs). And when I am ready to start I always use normal cooking oil for lubricant so that the putty wont stick to my tools and riun both them and my sculpt.

    Next is on what surface to sculpt.

    My picture shows a model, which you can sculpt directly onto for a great change in appearance (can anyone see what it is sculpted from?)
    The picture also shows a lot of steel wire. This can be used to build a base out of steel wires which you then can green stuff upon. This way
    the sculpt gains sturdiness while you are working so its not sliding around.
    And lastly but probably the most useful tip, use flat hard surfaces to sculpt on. This will really help you out at doing small details such as feathers, wine glasses, whips and so on. Just put a piece of green stuff on said surface, push it so its stuck to that surface and then start working with your tools and oil.

    Thirdly is the actual tools used for sculpting, these are my stiff tools that help me form and push the putty into place.
    Its a flat surface sculpting tool, a sharp pointed sculpting tool, and an really old brush used for oil duty.
    These all help me form, cut, pierce, and form sharp lines and holes. Details which these are good for is for example chainmail, fur and scales.
    And remember to use the oil people.

    Fourth is my soft sculpting tools, they help flatten surface´s, give alot of softer details, widen gaps and smoothing over gaps and cracks in the putty. They are often used for more fine details as the tools themselfs do not leave sharp edges, Details I usually use these for are muscles, faces and wrinkles. The best tip i can give you here is that there are two things that will affect the final result of a single stroke with these sculpting tools.

    The first is the amount of pressure you use, this is common sense but still worth mentioning.

    The second part is that the result will also be affected by how quickly you move your tool, the faster you do the movement the more shallow the lines will be. The longer you let your stroke take it will deepen the lines. This is because both the tool and the putty is soft but the tool is actually elastic and hence will move the putty at a delayed speed.

    Thats the fun and great part about sculpting people, anything you´re imagination can create so can you with these tools. And the only things that can limit you are, experience, patience and the amount of oil which you use. So oil up!

    Last but not least if you have any questions about what I do or how I do it just drop me a comment or a PM. Or even better if you wish to pass on your tips, im all ears.

    Cheers! [Read More]
  • Hello fellow wargamers, these articles will be about what tools might be needed for you're painting, sculpting, modeling purposes and how to use them. But first let me talk a little about what the hobby has meant for me the last 3 years.
    Just as with almost everyone else I didn´t find the hobby on my own but was pulled in to it from a set group of friends.
    Thanks to this I got a few shortcuts in what to do and what to buy from an in game perspective.
    However these people that brought me into the wargaming world didn´t prepare me in the same manner in the aspects of Sculpting, modeling and painting, simply because it wasn´t their interest in the same way as playing the game in itself.
    Thanks to this it more or less came down to a lot of trial and error, which is okay since its a learning experience. However it also resulted in me buying a lot of (in my mind) unnecassary equipment.
    So in an attempt to limit the trial and error for both new people and people who know the game but want to get into painting/sculpting/modeling more. All while saving some of their own hard earned cash. And as I will show, most of the items are also used in different ways and in different phases of the preperations.
    So here goes, part one modelling!

    Modelling.
    This is the part of the hobby in which I put steps like, removing mold lines, Glueing, bitzing, rasping, cutting, preparing, preserving and planning your miniature and its base.
    A quick picture to show the tools I use for all this will surely help and I want to remind you that they are all cheap.



    The picture shows you in total 16 different objects with only three of them being bought in an actuall miniature hobby store.

    The first step after you have received you´re miniature box and opened it would be to prepare the model for assembling.
    This contains a few steps such as removing mold lines, planing to add bitz and generally just tidying up the model.
    The tools I use for this are a scalpel, used for removing thicker mold lines and removing parts of a model in preperation for other steps.
    A more rough utility knife for when less finesse is needed, since it is more durable for pressure I use it for straight cutting when the cut will be deep. A nipper for similar reasons, when zero finess is involved and something just needs to be cut. Two simple rasps (fine surface) as another way of removing lines of details, the rasps are mostly used on rounded surfaces since it wont leave any edges. As earlier mentioned these are all cheap cheap cheap.


    Second step would be to assemble the prepared parts into a model.
    Here I use some small drills all from 0,8-3,2mm thick. Magnets, they do wonders for multiple gear choice units (my "pro" tip here is to aim for round magnets since they will fit easily in drilled holes). Super glue, it has a really hard but brittle strength. And an old toothbrush,
    its used together with dish soap to give 100% clean surfaces. And also 1.0 mm steel wire, this I use together with the drills to attatch the
    different parts together to eliminate any cracks that the super glue might get from blunt damage during gameplay. Once again very cheap and nothing bought in a miniature store.

    Thirdly would be one of the more creative parts of the modeling, BITZ!
    The gold mine of a miniature gamer and all the little unused bitz from all the leftover parts and models that you (and you´re friends) have acquired during the years.
    These are easily used to create unique miniatures for your army, which with good use can draw alot of attention and and praise.

    Fourth step is to prepare the model for sculpting/painting and also to create a base which you want to use.
    Here I use everyday materials such as Cork, for bases to give hight or to build a unique base. Wooden glue to attatch sand/gravel. And the
    steel wire to the bottom of the model, thanks to this i dont have to actually hold the model during painting, which helps preserve the base coat and different layers of paint from being rubbed away by fingers and when fully painted
    I cut of all but a little bit of the wire which I then drill into the base itself, thanks to this the miniature will be quite durable.
    I use matte varnish to harden otherwise slightly softer material such as Cork, styrofoam, greenstuff.
    And when everything is painted and varnished I use flock to give it an attractive look.
    These are materials I use, more so than the rest, that i bought in miniature stores simply because they are quite specific.

    Last but not least I use different ways to limit my models from being in contact with any surface during the painting step.
    I either attach them to a wine cork, or drill a steel wire into them and attatch them to anything stable enough to hold them straight (I choose some old furniture legs which were trashed )


    So all in all the step of modelling is pretty basic and not expensive at all. A lot of house hold materials and tools can be used for modelling
    and this is the charm of it.

    Last but not least if you… [Read More]