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Make those letters into straight runes, nowGHAÂAÂAÂARN ! — The Black Goat of the Woods with a Thousand Young
First T9A player in West Africa
Nice! Having it be angular was just an idea. Use whatever version you like the looks of, rounded or not.
If someone skilled and trained already did the job, then grab it and use it.
The Ge'ez language has evolved under influence of Christian religion, there is unmistakable parallel there, so why not use it? Also "They carve runes into stone, not metal (not so much at least)" and since the Kegiz Gavem evolved to see the light, so did their language.
@Ghiznuk: what do you think of this:
Start with Ge’ez abjad (angular runes) as the language of metal, when the Kegiz Gavem evolved their religion and started to prefer stone these dwarves evolved their language to harness the power of stone. Stone can hold metal, the simplest way to do that is to encircle it and a more rounded script emerged (Ge'ez abugida) that was better suited to empower stone and allowed the Kegiz Gavem to describe all that they found under the sun. The old language still lingers because the new language is not working well on metal and some traditions die hard.
That gives us 206 characters (up to 9 variants for each character) and 22 numbers for stone and 26+22 for metal to work with before involving the labialized and Affricated variants.
Make those letters into straight runes, now
Nice thoughts, go for it! I'm just tossing ideas at people as usual. We're much after artists' very own interpretations of the concept of Ethiopian fantasy Dwarfs. There's not just one way to do it, but a myriad. It'll be all the richer for the different visions' varied depictions.
yes, I like the font you showed, but the it stands now, it looks too much like normal gothic latin script.GHAÂAÂAÂARN ! — The Black Goat of the Woods with a Thousand Young
First T9A player in West Africa
yes, I like the font you showed, but the it stands now, it looks too much like normal gothic latin script.
The old 6th edition dwarfs book had a 22 character alphabet in it. The Unicode for runes has 81 characters, I can grab those as well.
I made the mesh on the club a bit better and changed the look to heroic scale:
Next tasks are something for the front (lion or sun), leather grips, runes and gems. Should I add a spike to counter the ball at the top? Wooden or stone club?
Definitely stone.GHAÂAÂAÂARN ! — The Black Goat of the Woods with a Thousand Young
First T9A player in West Africa
Stone it is then, I will probably leave it smooth because it is quality dwarven work. For images I will use a bit of texture and a stone look.
Found the fonts that are a bit more straight.
Just for sculpting I would go with Yebse, regular or tint. Yebse is the thickest and straightest that will make it easier to actually read in 28mm.
I checked to be sure, the Yebse font is licenced under a GNU General Public License, so I can legally use it and modify it as I wish.
My background is software engineering, a core principle is object orientation. In short this means build libraries of everything you want to use often and then reuse what you need. When many people do this you build up a powerful tool with insane options and reduced work times.
Practical test example with the alphabet:
Spend an hour to create a library of all characters in that font (it misses a few but I think there is more than enough). I turned the font into small cubes. Think of it as old school type setting from now on.
Then just load what you want into your work file, scale without loss of quality, position and angle it correctly. Easy runes and short text later on. You can also use this for inscriptions. You will need to bond these objects together.
Now if I were to use this on a wall full of text, then I would make an image and use the big image as a stamp, that is another use where you use the library of the font to simply type what you need. For runes and small text this library of cubes is faster.
I am building a gem library right now, which made me realize that we normally only sculpt 2 types of gems: the ones easy to paint (round blob and emerald).
Nice! And yes, definitely stone. Wood is for manlings.
Most interesting. I think Kegiz Gavem and Dwarves in general could benefit from some more complicated cut gems, perhaps alongside the usual two variants. Not too complicated since modelling/painting is kept in mind. But perhaps try five- or six-sided pyramids (maybe with tops cut off plateau-flat in some versions)? It's a bit more than the four-sided pyramid shape found in e.g. Space Wolf models, but not drastcally much more intricate.
Looking forward to updates and how you tackle further detail designs!
The post was edited 1 time, last by Karak Norn Clansman ().
Very proud of this step. It was a lot of trial and error to get there (no frigging tutorial) but I wrote down how I did it.
The handle now has a proper looking leather wrap:
For now the wrap is a second object linked to the club. A few copies of the club should help to show multiple angles. All of this is still basically a lot of squares, I can't commit because I want to color it for an image. In 3D modelling there is just a surface, nothing fills the volume.
Telling the software what each square is supposed to be is much easier if you have a lot less of them. I am still not fully sure on all the steps needed to make different final thingies (image and 3D printable), but I am pretty sure it is not the same or that some things must be done at different steps. So I am keeping it at this stage where all is still safe.
I have found tutorials to learn that, watching those will be done over the weekend.
Very fine work! And sound approach. Looks good as is.
Cobbled together some reference pictures in a single sheet, in case it's of interest as inspiration for digital weapon-forging:
Also, here is a highly speculative Total War: Attila mod attempt at reconstructing Axumite warriors.
Axes used in salt mining:
The post was edited 12 times, last by Karak Norn Clansman ().
I am not even sure those tips that look like fishing spears are practical in war, thin metal bends. Without the blades aligned your stabby stabby power goes down fast. My next object will be the sword/dagger to make sure I got the leather wrap right.
Yesterday I tried to engrave the club-head using the logic that stone is chiseled into. I did not want to sculpt it and I did not want to use the optical cheat those that make images use. Which leaves the tool I really hate: boolean. Cut with a not so random random number generator to find the nearest vertices. Which results in some terrible clean up work (impossible to fix it all) and very bad cuts as long as you have a low poly object. So for fun I tried high poly and found out that my hardware hits limitations fast. What I want can be done, just not with my hardware.
So I have been trying a few things just for the sake of it.
The imprint is terrible and due to multiple faces (flat surfaces) overlapping you get a really weird effect on the red. (dark grey will be iron, light grey stone, yellow is gold, brown is leather and red will be glowing with smoke effect. I did this to check that I have set the right materials for the right surfaces, in the end you pull a skin over it, so it does not really matter. This still needs runes, gems and maybe some writing.
I am closing in on a solution that hopefully works for proper assets. For images cheating often is better, so I will keep that version to test on. For now I am happy to have it working at all. All tutorials cheat and only show where the boolean operator can't mess up.
Right to show how much work the computer will do in rendering and left a new club that was copied and changed a little, because:
There are 2 sun symbols that are in the public domain that I want to use for now:
Ethiopian flag (a star is a sun )
The star testifies to Ethiopia's bright future, while the yellow rays which it emits are equidistant and are said to represent the equality of all Ethiopians regardless of race, creed, or sex.
The vector graphic is straight but I have no idea how to post those.
The Sun of May is a figurative sun that represents Inti, the sun god of the Inca religion
Modelling these 2 will not take that long, it should be a good exercise. @Karak Norn Clansman: I am picking items to keep training the same things, so next are that sword/dagger and a stone tablet book. That should help refine my notes on leather wrappings and imprinting. I am quite interested in the imprinting for terrain.
I hope that at least some of this is useful feedback for the design process in the book. In order to work on a visual style, I need to make choices. However, what I post is just feedback. If it does not fit, just say the word and I will need to do more training.
It is shocking how mathematically incorrect that Ethiopian star from the official flag image is. It took a bit of thinking on how to make it with minimal faces and a limited set of operators (all the correct angles and sizes). There were a few surprises but it was a great learning experiment. I cropped the rays a bit to get the circumference of a circle. The only measurements I took were width and the top point of the star for alignment. All the black is not a shadow but the original image.
I got a perfect imprint, but ...there is a minor unexpected problem with the topology. The lines from the circle should be seen in the recesses. The lack is most notable in the rays. When I apply the smoothing operator, you get tiny skins at the corners and a not so nice surface in the star.
A solid step to finding a solution, I will try to increase the faces (planes on the surface) and find equilibrium up to where my laptop can calculate the cut. Solid progress. Time to make a few dwarven ancestor symbols.
For those wondering how this is sculpting, it is not really sculpting. Sculpting will just be final highlights on this. Anything non organic is probably best with simple modelling. Sculpting is way way down the line when I get to the dwarf.
I made close ups:
new mesh, all 4 corner objects again after some manual work and no more weird artifacts or bumps.
Fixing this will be a lot of work. Not excessive and for adding such complexity I think it is needed work. Also good exercising to improve my skills.
Had I used a flat surface to cut into, none of this would have happened, hence all the flat surface tutorials and nobody showing the hard stuff.
Now the other sun symbol has some serious disadvantages for doing this technique, for one it has a way higher complexity with all the curves. I will have to model it myself and will make a few tweaks to improve the workflow now that I know what I want. I will spread the work over a few days as basic training while still doing fun stuff.
I watched a few tutorials and am getting a better understanding of what I need. The rough square version will be needed for images, it reduces render time but that needs some "cheats" with texture and color from the high poly version. This is a simple club so I will try to get away without it first and only later on when I know what assets I really want to use, do the work for larger projects. Always small steps.
Yesterday I started on details.
The issue I see here is that this will never work in 3x6mm, so probably a wall piece, kind of. The plan is to add a bit to the beard and mustache with sculpting and then give it a go coloring it up and test gems on it.
My reference image, I basically added a beard to get it shield shaped.
The post was edited 1 time, last by Little Joe ().
Magnificient forefather face design! I'm as ever most fond of angular ancestor faces, so the pre-rounded version strikes a particular chord with me. Both look great! Would it be possible to also render a non-rounded version of the angular original?
The post was edited 2 times, last by Karak Norn Clansman ().
The rounding is rather harsh because it is a process subdividing and smoothing any face (surface plane) to get more detail. I need high poly for sculpting but have a large degree of control on how angular it gets in the end. Adding a lot more lines will make it more angular.
I do like the plated ending on the beard better with some rounded corners, that makes it more interesting.
I don't think that I want to do any sculpting on it anymore, you could not see it anyhow.
The post was edited 1 time, last by Little Joe ().