Stone, Water, and War: My adventures in terrain and miniatures

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    • The classic Empire tavern, inn, and meeting hall

      This particular project came about from a desire to have a uniquely shaped building to add to my town/city collection. There's many companies out there that sell the classic coaching inn or tavern models and some of them are very good. Tabletop World's coaching inn comes to mind which is excellent as is Forgeworld's now loooong out of production coaching inn. Stronghold Terrain also makes a really nice medieval inn which I do own and have built and painted.

      But I wanted something that had more character. In keeping with the history of medieval architecture I wanted a building that looked like it was something that was added onto over the decades or centuries as more space was needed, etc. Anyone who has studied the subject. or some of you who may actually live in parts of the world where this old medieval architecture is all around you to see first-hand, you know that indeed most medieval towns consisted of buildings that were constantly having additions added to them, etc. And so a medieval town began to take on a very unique look about it. Structures with irregular shapes and angles, buildings jammed together and weaving between another as a new section was added.

      With that in mind I set about looking for two commercially-made resin buildings that I could then convert and make them into a single, unified structure. However the trick here was that I wanted to pull off the idea that an older, original building had had a major addition built onto it. The other part of the trick was that I wanted some hint that you could tell that the two buildings were cobbled together at different times and that it was not all built as one structure but rather something that changed shape over time as ownership changed, etc.

      And finally I didn't want it to look "overly fantasy" as in I didn't want it be an over-the-top look where the two buildings looked impossibly connected in some ridiculous fashion that defied gravity. It had to be something that looked believable and yet fit into the theme of the Empire of Sonnstahl.

      What I finally found were two buildings from Tabletop World's medieval range: Townhouse II and Townhouse III

      The instant I saw the shape of these two buildings I realized that together they would fulfill the look I was trying to achieve!

      Now of course the first problem was that indeed both of these products are sold as separate buildings and did not fit together in any sort of designed way. So I simply took both of the buildings and thought about where the most logical place would be for these two buildings to be connected so that it looked like a convincing add-on.

      After fiddling with them I decided upon the best place where they should join.

      But in doing so I was now confronted with the inevitable. When pushed together as closely as possible there was still about a 1 inch gap between the buildings. This open space would need to be filled with scratch-built components to make both buildings into one structure.

      I was WAAAAY into new territory with my modeling skills at this point. I had never attempted to do anything so ambitious that approached the level of like what diorama makers might do or military modelers might do. I understood and could envision what I wanted, but being able to actually pull it off where it all blended together seamlessly was another question!

      So I went ahead and glued both buildings into position on a base of MDF. With the buildings in their final positions I then thought about what would work best to fill in the gap. I finally decided that pink insulation was a good bulk filler to simply fill the space so that other details could be put on top of it. I also decided that square balsa wood strips and thin cardboard would be the best materials to use for the timbers. Finally I decided that wall filler/spackle would serve well as the actual "plaster" of the walls and when painted would match the surrounding walls of the original buildings. I also chose to mimic the stone work of the buildings by cutting my own tiny blocks out of pink insulation foam.

      I cut the insulation foam into rough shapes to fit into the gap and just glued them in until the space was packed with the stuff:


      So far so good but I still had very serious doubts that my scratch-building skills were up to the task of mimicking the amazing detail of the resin buildings themselves! I had to simply keep adding layers and then hope that when I finally painted it all it would look convincing!

      I started to add some of the cardboard and balsa wood timbers, foam blocks, and wall filler/spackle:


      At this point I also added some additional exterior details like the crates and barrels, some scurrying rats, and a dog and cat to the porch and staircase. These were all various resin components that I got from Stronghold Terrain and other companies.

      When the all the filler stuff in between the two buildings had dried and all the exterior stuff was glued down I was still confronted with another problem! Where the second floor ended the gap still extended all the way up to the tops of the roofs. I had no choice but to make some scratch-built shingles to match the existing shingles. Again I turned to thin cardboard and cut out tiny rectangles and glued them over the gap.

      Looking at the project at this moment I was a little more confident that I could pull this off. I felt like I had used the most convincing materials possible to match the texture of the original buildings. It was really going to come down to the paint job and having everything come together with colors applied over it.

      So I simply began painting the whole thing! I went straight across all the plaster areas painting them all in the same color so that they all blended together. Same thing applied to the roof shingles - all the same shade of green with the same highlights. The timbers all the same brown, etc.

      Once I got to the point where I was doing drybrushing highlights I was astonished as to how good it turned out! I stepped back and when I looked at where I had added all the filler I was genuinely convinced that some miniature Empire citizens had indeed constructed these buildings and at some point cobbled them together and created one unified, large structure. I envisioned that inside the buildings they had knocked out the walls and put in doors and hallways so that the two buildings could be moved through as one structure.

      Perhaps this was an old inn that the owner decided to expand as the business grew. Perhaps it was a town meeting hall that was expanded into a larger, multi-functional type of municipal building that served the town/city in an official capacity.

      Whatever the back-story was, I finally had that unique-looking building that had that genuine "cobbled-together" medieval look!


      ...And HERE is the real moment of truth! A genuine closeup of my scratch-built filler work right up against the details of the original buildings:


      As I said earlier, I was surprised that it looked as convincing as it does! I mean a trained modeling eye can still tell that something has been added to the existing buildings, it's not a perfect match. But for what I wanted to achieve it worked out as well as I could possibly expect!

      More views of some of the additional details:


      So I hope that sharing this conversion project will inspire you to try your own conversions on terrain and miniatures when you're building your armies and terrain for the 9th Age. I also hope that this inspires you to push yourself out of your comfort zone and attempt something that at first you might think is beyond your modeling skills. I CERTAINLY thought when I started this that I was way in over my head! I really had to follow through and finish it to prove myself wrong.

      Happy modeling my friends!
      There are many magic rings in the world Bilbo Baggins, and none of them should be used lightly!

      The post was edited 2 times, last by Baranovich ().

    • The classic windmill of old

      This is a project that I completed back in 2017. I shopped around for short time looking for well-detailed plastic or resin models.

      I finally came back to Tabletop World. They simply make some of the best resin medieval buildings in the business. I own several of their models and the detail is always consistently crisp, and mold lines and flash are practically non-existent. They are on the expensive side but if you want to have some amazing looking buildings on your 9th Age tabletop then Tabletop World has to be considered!

      The windmill is one of those terrain features that unfortunately falls into the same category as water features. It's not seen nearly enough (if at all!) on the fantasy tabletop yet it would be a very common structure for the human cultures of the 9th Age world.

      Given that the Empire and Equitaine would both be cultures that utilized agriculture on a large scale they would naturally need to grind the wheat they grow into usable flour for bread, etc.

      Tabletop World's windmill is the perfect model for 9th Age tabletops.

      Along with the stonework I did on the tavern/inn/meeting hall, the stonework on the windmill is so crisp and so clean that I had to do it justice by giving it a paint job that was beyond the simple base coat and single drybrush. Many modelers, myself included tend to do most stonework in the classic gray with a lighter gray or white drybrush. This is totally fine and looks really good on both buildings and things like cliffs and rock formations.

      However for Tabletop World's buildings I wanted to take it to another level and do mutli-colored stonework as is so often seen in historical stone towers and castles/keeps from the medieval period.

      I turned to historical photos for visual reference. This particular photo was very useful in seeing how many different shades of stone could be in a typical masonry tower of the period:


      This, along with terrains features like creating hand-etched stonework in foam is something that you simply cannot take shortcuts on. You need several shades of paint and those paint colors have to be applied to the individual stones and groups of stones by hand. There's no way around it. I'll be the first to admit - it's a HUGE pain in the a** doing stonework on this level. But the payoff at the end is HUGE! The visual reward on the tabletop is really amazing.

      So with that said, I simply went ahead and turned to my trusty cheap craft paints!

      "> are the three primary paint mixes I made to achieve the several different shades of stones. These mixes produce a straight gray, a greenish/brownish gray, and finally an orange/brown:


      I no longer have the photos that show it, but I base coated the stonework in a white primer. I then painted on the stone colors by hand, some individually and some in groups. After the basic colors were done, I went and did a series of washes and white drybrushes. I believe I did at least four layers of washes and a final white drybrush over the final wash. I did this to achieve translucency in the stones and to really as much as possible bring out every bit of detail that the sculptors put into the prototype at Tabletop World.

      I used the identical technique for the multi-color stonework on my tavern/inn/meeting hall, although for the windmill I also did a few additional mixes to also make several shades of oranges and browns. I also left out the greenish shade for the windmill. But the principle and technique is the same:


      In the end, the windmill painted up beautifully. I used a basecoat and lighter drybrush on the sails to achieve a look of canvas stretched over a frame, almost like a sail on a sailing ship that's pulled taught.

      I also used a number of secondary market resin components including some barrels, sacks, a tiny bird's nest, and finally a local village dog!

      The model is based on a large disc of craft wood from the craft store.

      Here are the final results of the stonework and other details:


      In the end I'm really pleased with how it turned out. I have to admit that Tabletop World's detail is so crisp and clean that it almost paints itself in some ways! I mean their models are just fun to paint because the detail is so obvious and so well sculpted. All you really need to decide is how far you want to take the paint job.

      Happy modeling my friends! :thumbup:
      There are many magic rings in the world Bilbo Baggins, and none of them should be used lightly!

      The post was edited 5 times, last by Baranovich ().

    • Well done, very accurate work you did there. Reminds me of OnceBitten´s project when he painted a whole fortress and every wall
      piece different..
      We´ll find out if the watch dog and the sleepy cat will ever meet...
      Agree on the quality of the tabletop world terrain pieces. They aren´t cheap and I suspect you have to pay even more p&p
      from the US but in the end they are worth every penny.
      Kruber wrote:
      Imperial Rangers burn the woods ---> Sylvan Elves go cry in the corner.
    • Banners never used from an earlier time in my wargaming career

      This has some thing interesting back story to it. I made these banners way, way back in 2007! At that time I had plans to do several full-sized Warhammer armies and also several full-sized GW Lord of the Rings armies. After a time my situation changed and I couldn't fulfill my grand plans to do so many armies. In fact not long after I made these banners I was forced out of the hobby altogether due to a personal logistical disaster in which I lost nearly my entire miniature and terrain collection. But after that I got out of Lord of the Rings minis. altogether and switched over to just Warhammer and historicals.

      The interesting thing was at the time I made these, I had a significant number of plastic regiments and battalions that still came with banner poles that were empty where you could actually glue your own banners to the poles. By 2007 they were already producing Empire, Bretonnia,Orcs and other ranges with the plastic banners actually sculpted as part of the model.

      The same thing was true for their Lord of the Rings ranges where you could still add paper banners to banner poles for a good deal of their stuff, like Rohan and a lot of the Orc/Urukhai ranges.

      When I had all these grand plans I spent some time devoted purely to hand-cut, drawn and painted banners.

      I pulled these out just the other day and it was strange to see them twelve years after I made them! They were in a protective sleeve and folder that was one of the few things that survived the 2011 logistical disaster where I lost everything!

      I had quite forgotten that I actually got into banners to this degree where I was actually making my own! I have said several times in my blog that my free-hand skill are limited. However when I look at these I realize that I was selling myself short. I drew all of these by hand with pencil and then painted in the colors over it. It's kind of hard to look at these and realize that I did these by hand and did them so long ago.

      The Empire banner I'm especially proud of. That was a hand-drawn copy of one of the Empire regiments from Warhammer 6th Edition. In 6th Edition GW did a number of banners where there was straight black silhouettes over a red and white background. There was a bird if I recall correctly, along with several other symbols including this one which I think is either most likely a deer or some other kind of horned deer-like animal:


      The green elven banner was part of a plan to do a full-sized elf army, which also never became a reality. This particular banner is a copy I made from a plastic elf regiment that was I think from the 4th or maybe 5th Edition Warhammer rulebook or wood elf army book? I measured out the dimensions of it from the page it was printed on and like the Empire banner hand-drew and hand-painted all the different colors and details:


      The smaller yellow banner at the top was my own design. I was just experimenting with colors and designs. I didn't really know what I was going to use it for at the time.

      I also made this purple banner with the golden chalice on it. This was my own design that I sketched out by hand and painted:


      I also did quite a few Lord of the Rings banners, primarily for Rohan and Sauron's Orcs but also a few for the elves some of which I painted and others where I only got the pencil drawing phase done. From top to bottom there's a green banner with the white tree of Gondor, an elven banner with a specific design that I copied by hand from the Lord of the Rings rulebook, and finally an Orc banner with the red eye of Sauron:


      I also found quite a few other banners that I had sketched out but never actually painted:


      The ironic thing about this banner project was that back in 2007 my painting and modeling skills were not even remotely close to what they are today. I could do passable armies and terrain for sure, but not on the level I do now. I had quite forgotten my artistic side and the fact that I actually had pretty decent hand-drawing and free hand painting skills. In a lot of ways my banner making skills were way ahead of my mini. painting skills, so these kinds of projects were kind of done by me in a moment of inspiration that in essence were way ahead of my time.

      Looking at this collection of banners now I realize that I have to find some uses for these! They took too much work and effort to just throw away! I think I might take some banner bearer models that have sculpted banners and perhaps cut them off and replace them with a brass rod so I can attach these banners to them. Even though they are technically Warhammer and Lord of the Rings icons, they are generic enough to fit into any 9th Age army I think!

      Seeing these again has also inspired me to maybe make new banners for upcoming units that I'm painting.

      In any event I wanted to share these to show that sometimes we can forget things that we did and not realize that we're actually better at it then we think!

      Happy modeling my friends.
      There are many magic rings in the world Bilbo Baggins, and none of them should be used lightly!

      The post was edited 2 times, last by Baranovich ().

    • "In any event I wanted to share these to show that sometimes we can forget things that we did and not realize that we're actually better at it then we realize! "

      So true Mr Baranovich.

      I often dig out old models that I painted up and am astounded at how good I was at the time and think how did I do that?
      Conversely I often dig out old models that I painted and am astounded at how rubbish my painting was at the time.

      And with the banners.. I recently looked at some old banners I did back in the far flung past and was inspired to make some new ones for some of my armies .... those that have been lacking in love and attention for some time.
      He was scarcely sixteen years of age when he left his father’s home,
      And through Australia’s sunny clime a bushranger did roam.
      He robbed those wealthy squatters, their stock he did destroy,
      And a terror to Australia was the Wild Colonial Boy.
    • Modular, flexible river sections Part 1

      I returned briefly to rivers because I wanted to go back to something very basic that brings to mind the principles that are crucial to follow when making terrain that goes to a higher level of realism.

      If there are some gamers/modelers reading this blog and thinking "oh wow I could never do terrain like that!", please remember that I am not really an artistic person, not in the sense of drawing or painting something from scratch. I seriously endeavored to learn the pure mechanics of how colors work together and being disciplined enough to take all the necessary steps in the correct order when making any kind of wargaming terrain. In that sense I kind of learned how to paint miniatures and build terrain from the inside out if you take my meaning.

      Whether it was my very complex castle keep project or something as simple as the river sections I'm making here, the same exact steps in the same exact order apply to every terrain project no matter how complex or simple.

      As I'm sure every other 9th Age player who has a hobby blog here will tell you, you have to follow a procedure of steps and follow them in the right order to achieve that "finished" look that you see on a really nicely terrained gaming table.

      One thing I've noticed over the years is that some gaming terrain that players have made doesn't look as good as they wish and it's precisely because one or more of the steps was skipped, and subconsciously they may not have even realized they were skipping them.

      The same thing applies to miniatures. Look at this random mini. for example. It's very neatly painted in base coats. The first step of the miniature is done and the model is waiting for further steps:

      The point I make here is that this is not a badly painted miniature. But it's also not a finished miniature. The issue here for the painter isn't one of artistic ability, but rather a technical issue. There are three or four more steps that could be taken for this mini. that have simply not been taken. If the painter stops at this point and then wonders why the mini. doesn't look like a mini. in White Dwarf for example, the painter hasn't fallen short in terms of talent, ability, or artistry. He/she simply decided to take no more steps, or perhaps doesn't know what the next steps are to get to another level. There isn't any artistic mystery or intangible unknown here! This mini. simply needs to have shading and highlighting done to it! Those are mechanical techniques that once understood become an obvious part of the progression of a model's paint job.

      Now this may seem ridiculously obvious to you and me who have been painting and modeling for years and maybe even decades.

      It's not a question so much of experience as it is simply becoming aware of what those next steps are and how to replicate those steps to get to the next level.

      What I'm describing is how I learned to advance in painting. When I paint miniatures and make terrain now I am literally doing NOTHING MORE than replicating the steps that I saw other people doing. This is why I have always said when doing any kind of tutorial, that making great-looking terrain is in my opinion and experience FAR MORE mechanical and technical in nature than it is artistic.

      To a certain extent I use a kind of limited palette when painting miniatures and terrain. What I mean is that often I don't obsess over using like using multiple different silvers in a regiment to distinguish between like spears and helmets, or armor and beer mugs, or whatever. I repeat a lot of the same browns in my models and I tend to use the same flesh technique when painting skin and my skin often comes out the same shade whether I'm doing dwarves, humans, or elves. Now some will say that I'm not an advanced painter because I can't control my skin tones between races of models. Granted, however for me who has limited ability in controlling skin tones on models without screwing them up I stick to safer method where I know the results will be predictable. BUT at the same time I am ensuring that I will never paint a model without doing flesh that has a shade, layer, and highlight. All of my flesh is FINISHED if somewhat repetitive!

      With all that set I turn to my modular river terrain project!

      I am about halfway done with the river at this point. I used bases made of artist's foamcore, with pieces of pink insulation foam to make the river banks. The insulation foam was then coated with PVA/white glue and dipped in sand:

      Foamcore is a good choice of basing material if you don't have access to MDF pieces or don't have the power tools needed to cut MDF board. This is exactly why I use it. The thing about foamcore is that it is susceptible to warping. However if it's manipulated in the right way you can make modular sections that are nice and flat.

      I don't show it here, but when I glued the river bank pieces to the foamcore I weighted them all down with stacks of books so they would be forced to dry flat. However even after they were dry the longer pieces seemed to want to warp upwards a bit. This is where foamcore's flexibility is a huge advantage. Even after the river banks were dry, you can gently "crack" insulation foam and bend the foamcore and put creases into it to reshape it so that it takes the warp out. It doesn't matter at this stage how much you bend or crease the foamcore or how much you crack the river banks because you're going to be covering all of it with paint and texturing any way! This is the stage where you want your sections to "settle" and sort of work all of the warp out of them.

      Here's the sections after the foamcoare has been reshaped and the river banks have been painted in their brown base color:

      Now at this stage I could simply paint the river beds blue and they would be technically "usable" on a gaming table. However like the base coated mini. above these aren't yet in a finished state, not when following the principles of the basic steps of terrain from start to finish.

      So those basic principles I've been talking about all along are as follows (and the same exact criteria applies to minis. with regard to base coats, layers, shades, and highlights):

      1. Structural/shape - Much like the framing of a house, the terrain pieces need to have their skeleton built. There has to be some material that gives the terrain its height/width and shape that will then have the next steps applied over it.

      2. Texturing - That skeleton or framework has to have some kind of texture applied to it, whether it be river banks, a stone wall, a wooden house, or rock formations. If you don't apply texturing over the skeleton you will end up with flat, lifeless surfaces that painting won't very much help. In this case the texturing for the river banks is floral sand. The texturing for the river bed's ripples and current will be gloss medium later on.

      3. Base coat painting - Everything has to be painted in some color! If you leave the materials that make up the skeleton in their original material colors then obviously the terrain will be lifeless. This is akin to just building models but not painting them. No matter how awesome the detail is on a model or how awesome the texturing is on terrain, if it's not painted then it really defeats the whole point! We've all seen the gray bare plastic army on the tabletop and how uninspiring and lifeles that is. Unpainted terrain is equally as lifeless!

      4. Drybrush painting and final texturing - Nothing on terrain should be left in its base color. Every element of the terrain should have at least ONE drybrushing highlight. After drybrush highlighting, the final texturing refers to applying some sort of landscaping grass or flock to the piece or in the case of water applying something over the base coat to give the water its surface shape.

      The thing to remember is that violating any of these rules in the form of skipping one or more of them will result in unfinished-looking terrain. It's guaranteed!

      Doing steps 1, 2, and 3 but skipping 4 has a predictable result of not looking finished. Skipping 1 but doing 2, 3, and 4 will result in terrain that is 2-dimensional and flat. No matter how well you paint the terrain it will visually be missing something. And so on...

      I'll end part 1 here. Coming next will be drybrushing of the river banks, painting of the river bed, applying gloss medium over the painted river bed, and finally adding flock and static grass to the river banks. And like the base coated mini. above, these are actually VERY CLOSE to getting to the next level. They just need a couple more steps done in the right order!

      There are many magic rings in the world Bilbo Baggins, and none of them should be used lightly!

      The post was edited 1 time, last by Baranovich ().

    • Modular, flexible river sections Part 2

      I'm back with the conclusion of my modular river terrain project!

      As promised, we enter the final stages of the river sections.

      After I had painted the river beds in the dark base coat, I took some garden pebbles and glued them randomly in some spots on the pieces to represent shallows. These were painted very simply in gray and then highlighted in a lighter gray.

      I used some autumn golden colored static grass for the river banks. I chose that color of grass because it can be used on either a spring/summer or a winter tabletop. These rivers sections I made specifically so I had a river I could use on winter tabletops and a brownish-colored grass fits well with a frozen landscape as well as a warmer landscape.

      At this point the sections are looking much more like actual rivers:


      ...and now we have the magical ingredient! Mod Podge gloss sealer! One simple coat applied with a brush. Just dabbing back and forth to create the flowing pattern of the river. Here's a section where the Mod Podge has just been applied. It goes on pure white and then dries clear:

      And after drying overnight, we finally have the finished product! You can see how realistic it looks when light hits it, and you can see how very much it looks like actual water flowing around the rocks, etc. Some modelers like to put a coat of gloss varnish over the top of the Mod Podge but I personally I find that the gloss of the Mod Podge is enough to stand on its own. You could also do a second coat of Mod Podge to build up a slightly thicker layer of water surface but it's not really necessary for my own personal preferences. One coat is generally enough.


      This last photo shows a section where the Mod Podge is still in the process of drying, next to a section where the Mod Podge is completely dry. It generally takes at least overnight to fully dry to a hard, clear surface. However if you apply it more thickly it can take up to 24 hours to fully dry.

      And that's it guys! One simple product used for sealing pictures turns out to be an easy to use, perfect water effects product for wargaming! thought. Let's think back for a moment to my earlier blog post about the principle of making miniature rivers. Remember what I talked about with regard to what water actually looks like in the daylight - that dark, inky bluish/blackish color that water often looks like in a flowing river. A dark color where you can't tell the depth of the river itself because the water looks opaque because of the daylight reflecting off it. Here's a few more real-life photos of rivers in the day time that show this!

      Happy modeling my friends
      . :thumbup:

      There are many magic rings in the world Bilbo Baggins, and none of them should be used lightly!

      The post was edited 4 times, last by Baranovich ().

    • *throws out all his terrain*

      I must begin anew

      Teach me the ways master.

      (seriously, you & @Little Joe could do an amazing terrain book!)

      Head of Lectors

      Advisory Board

      Quick Starter Team

      "...take a step back and remember that we are playing a game where we roll dice and move little people around the board."

      - Grouchy Badger

    • What a topic! =O So inspiring! I love the attention of the details. Your building are gorgerous.

      If you like medieval city, please let me show you some cities that we have here in France, hope it will inspire you work as it inspire me. :)

      Display Spoiler
      Carcasonne :

      Guérande :

      Provins :

      Sarlat :

      La Roque-Gageac :

      Domme :

      Najac :

      Autoire :

      Beltastel :

      And more and more...

      Keep up the good work! :)
    • Citadel Contrast Paints, my first test results!

      I was fortunate enough yesterday to be at my local hobby store the same afternoon that the owner happened to get in his first shipment of Contrast Paints. So I picked up three colors: Guilliman Flesh, OrK Flesh, and Cygor Brown.

      I am currently building some plastic warbands for the game Frostgrave and Arcworlde, so I thought it was a perfect opportunity to spray a few of them and see what faces look like with a coat of Contrast put over them.

      I experimented with the two undercoats: Their new Wraithbone spray and their older Corax White. Corax White as you probably already know is actually a light gray color and not a pure white so I thought it would work similarly to the way their new Grey Seer spray would. That proved correct after I saw the initial color results.

      So I have to say I'm pretty impressed so far! GW once again backs up their claims! I put Guilliman Flesh pretty thickly over the face areas and then gently pulled excess out of the deepest recesses and spread it around a bit so it wouldn't be too strong. Sure enough this stuff perfectly shaded all the recesses and crevices of the facial details, even the tiny lines around the eyelids. It left a very clear and distinct outline around the eyes and all facial features. And as GW claimed it leaves enough of the white or gray shining through the Contrast Paint to give the impression of having done a separate highlight over the flesh.

      And a word here about the size of the pots. Yes, they are smaller than the large size wash pots they sell. Yes, they are $8.00 and you get less than you get when buying a wash. However, if you're using it for small flesh areas on models like Empire humans one pot of this stuff will last FOREVER. I mean I did 8 models and I only needed a tiny dab for each face. If I use the Guilliman Flesh for my Empire army this pot will do hundreds of models and then some. Now of course if you're going to use Contrast paints to do larger areas of models like the base coat for space marines or the entire suit of armor of a unit of knights, or using them on creatures like medium or larger-sized monsters you will go through a pot a lot faster.

      I plan to do some Orc flesh next with the Ork Flesh and then try some Vermin Swarm face and bodies with the Cygor Brown.

      It looks like these are going to be absolutely fantastic for doing human-colored flesh on large numbers of models like armies for EOS, KOE, or even Chaos or Ogre Kahns. I mean obviously you can still go ahead and do additional, traditional highlights over the Contrast finish. But for me, like many 9th Age gamers who want to get armies done quickly I am more than satisfied with how these faces look just with the Contrast alone! In fact these are like a miracle for me because I struggle with making human flesh look good. I tend to either muddy the skin because I do too many layers or I create too sharp a contrast between light and dark and it ends up looking artificial. With this Contrast paint I can spray the model, do one pass of this stuff and the flesh is done!

      ***Important note here. These are indeed NOT standard washes! They are thicker than washes and have some kind of medium already added to them. They do not require any kind of medium added to them to remain in recesses and crevices. They do not "coffee stain" the face without shading it which is a problem with so many traditional washes where the wash seems to just disappear into oblivion as it dries and ends up acting more like a wood stain than a wash. I was able to slop it on fairly thickly and it stuck fast into the recesses and properly shaded them while leaving nice, bright high areas. Even the tiniest details were finely outlined with the shade. And YES, these work on one pass!

      So here's the final verdict! Up close and personal, human faces done the GW Contrast way. I'm really liking what I'm seeing so far!

      There are many magic rings in the world Bilbo Baggins, and none of them should be used lightly!

      The post was edited 3 times, last by Baranovich ().

    • Alexbbr wrote:

      What a topic! =O So inspiring! I love the attention of the details. Your building are gorgerous.

      If you like medieval city, please let me show you some cities that we have here in France, hope it will inspire you work as it inspire me. :)

      Display Spoiler
      Carcasonne :

      Guérande :

      Provins :

      Sarlat :

      La Roque-Gageac :

      Domme :

      Najac :

      Autoire :

      Beltastel :

      And more and more...

      Keep up the good work! :)
      Thanks for the wonderful compliments, much appreciated!

      Ummm...I think I need to move to France. As in like immediately. =O =O =O =O !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
      There are many magic rings in the world Bilbo Baggins, and none of them should be used lightly!

      The post was edited 1 time, last by Baranovich ().