Stone, Water, and War: My adventures in terrain and miniatures

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    • The Empire prepares for a winter campaign

      Ever since Mr. Owl and I fought our winter 9th Age battle last year I have become more and more inspired to not only make more winter terrain but also to do some actual winter-themed units. Ogre Kahns and WOTDG are common armies that are often done in winter themes. However I wanted to do some human armies that are portrayed as being on winter campaign.

      While I don't have the resources or time to do entire armies in a winter theme, I was determined to at least make some individual choice units that not only had winter terrain bases but also were wearing winter clothing and gear!

      While there are a number of really good mini. companies that make RPG personality and adventuring figures in winter clothing (Midlam Miniatures and Frostgrave are my two favorites), finding entire regiments of fantasy soldiers in winter clothing is a much more difficult task as well as being potentially very expensive.

      For the dwarves we are fortunate to have amazing companies like Scibor who now do entire units of dwarves wearing winter clothing. But buying enough Scibor units to make an entire dwarf winter army big enough for a 9th Age army list just wasn't feasible for me from a money perspective. And I didn't want to outright purchase units in winter clothing if I could find a way to do my own conversions.

      I turned instead to the Empire of Sonntsahl. And then I sparked upon an idea when I looked at some of the historical mini. stuff I had stored away.

      One of my favorite things about GW kits, particularly their old battalion boxes was that when you were done building an army you got a TON of left over components. I built and entire Empire army back in 2015 which I still need to paint. But between the battalion box, the state troops, militia, archers, and hangunners I had literally hundreds of spare heads, weapons, arms, etc.

      To my delight I discovered that many of the spare GW heads were dressed in caps trimmed in fur! Perfect for winter campaigning troops. I also had quite a few leftover heads from the Frostgrave soldiers I had built, many of which also had winter-themed head gear:

      Now that I knew I had more than enough fantasy bits for an Empire winter battalion I was then confronted with what to use as the actual bodies of the troops. I had a feeling early on that I was going to turn to historical miniatures for the answer but wasn't sure exactly what time period would be the best fit and not look too obviously historical!

      There were Civil War soldiers in winter greatcoats, American Revolution Continentals in long coats, milita in long hunting shirts, etc.

      But then I found a Napoleonic plastic boxed set that had components that were perfectly set up to do the kind of winter conversions I had in mind. Warlord Games makes an extensive range of plastic historicals, including the Napoleonic Wars. Their late war Napoleonic French infantry was the perfect set since the soldiers are all wearing long coats that could easily pass for winter coats in a fantasy army:


      This set was perfect because the heads came as separate components and I could easily glue Empire fantasy heads to the bodies instead of the historical heads. The muskets could be easily cut off and replaced with halberds and spears.

      I cut away the musket and then drilled holes into the arm where the musket had been. I then inserted the fantasy weapons into the holes.

      The thing I love about this particular pose is that they are all marching with their weapons shouldered. In the Civil War this was called "Support Arms" which was one of the more comfortable positions to carry a heavy, long weapon for long periods of time. I thought that it would be really cool to have an Empire regiment carrying their weapons in a march pose instead of the usual combat and attacking poses:


      So far I'm having a blast making these! After the first few I realized that these are going to look great and quite natural and the historical and fantasy were going to blend very well and not look artificial. I plan to do a regiment of 28 of these including a command with a banner bearer, musician and champion.

      The only technical glitch I had so far was that when you drill the hole behind the arm you have to make sure that you dig VERY deeply behind the arm, otherwise you can bulge the arm out and it can tend to look like the halberd or spear is poking through the arm and not tucked behind it! But any that come out like that can be fixed with some putty to flesh out the arm again.

      The other cool thing about the Napoleonic French infantry is that the backpacks and other gear looks very generic and can be used as fantasy soldiers' gear. Another fortunate detail of the project is that GW's fur hatted heads all have facial expressions that were positively perfect for the effect I wanted to achieve! I wanted these guys to look COLD. I wanted them to look like they were on a long, frigid march and not altogether happy about the circumstances they were in. GW's faces are so perfect for this because many of them are frowning, scowling and looking altogether cold and miserable.

      The long coats and tails along with the generic shoes and trousers are the perfect look for Empire soldiers who have abandoned their fancy uniforms in favor of practical, plain winter clothing. I'm purposely mixing the heads so that some of them still have the feather while others have simpler hats where I'm portraying that the soldier has thrown away the feather due to it being nothing but a useless decoration that only gets in the way on campaign.

      So here's my first test pieces. I think this is going to all work out very well for an Empire winter battalion! I will post regular updates as I make progress on these. I can't wait until I can start painting them and getting proper snow on the bases so that I can field an entire of Empire veterans marching somewhere up in the far, frozen reaches of the northern regions of the 9th Age world!

      Happy winter modeling my friends. :thumbup:


      There are many magic rings in the world Bilbo Baggins, and none of them should be used lightly!

      The post was edited 4 times, last by Baranovich ().

    • Empire battalion winter conversions Part 2: cloaks and robes

      I made some progress on my Empire winter conversion project.

      I finished assembling the entire battalion and will post pics. later on of the completed unit all ranked up.

      But here I want to show more examples of how useful left over bits can be and how they can sometimes work even better than you expected!

      When I built all five of my plastic GW armies back in 2017 I literally saved every spare sprue. I had about 15 total boxed sets for Empire and I obsessively kept everything! I'm very glad I did!

      After I had finished the battalion I realized that a number of models didn't actually have winter coats on because I had to resort to using a couple Warhammer Empire bodies for things like the drummer and the unit commander. The Warhammer bodies are of course dressed in the usual Renaissance, tight, frilly uniforms. I wasn't ready to attempt to do a full-on green stuff sculpt of winter coats over the existing models, I felt that was beyond my skill at the moment although it may be something I attempt to do in the future.

      Instead I dug back into the old bits pile. I had quite forgotten just how much extra stuff GW gives you in boxed sets. It's pretty extraordinary. Just when I thought I had exhausted every possibility I opened the old Empire Knightly Orders cavalry boxed set. To my utter delight I discovered a whole section of sprues with fur cloaks! I then went into my old Empire General and Empire battle wizards boxes sets and found several totally intact cloaks and robes!

      The fur cloaks could not have worked out better. They fit the Napoleonic bodies so well it almost seemed as if they were designed for the models!:


      For the two models that had Empire bodies, the commander and drummer, the fur cloaks didn't fit well. However, the cloak that came from the Empire General boxed set fit my halberdier commander perfectly. Again, I could not have asked for a better fit!:


      For the front of the model I got the idea that maybe he was also wearing a scarf in addition to the cloak. So I took one of the battle wizard cloak bits, cut off the long, ribbony bit and glued it next to his next to make it look like a long scarf that was hanging down. The lantern was a bit from the Frostgrave soldiers boxed set. I wanted to give the feeling that the commander was every bit as cold as his soldiers and that they were marching on a cold, cloudy, dreary winter day or night. His lantern indicates that the road they are marching on is very dimly lit even in the afternoon and so he has taken it upon himself to be the battalion's guide as well as their commander. He's also carrying a halberd like his soldiers, indicating that the unit has suffered casualties to the point where out of necessity the commander needs to fight as one of the rank and file soldiers.

      Here's the cloak bits I used to make his cloak and scarf:


      For the drummer I also utilized some of the robes bits from the Empire battle wizards boxed set.

      Here's the two bits I used. I had to do some alterations on both bits. For the larger bit I had to carve away the partial staff and wizard's arm, and for the smaller bit I had to carve out some of the interior so that it fit the curve of the drummers back better:


      Will be posting pics. of the completed battalion hopefully by this afternoon or evening.
      There are many magic rings in the world Bilbo Baggins, and none of them should be used lightly!

      The post was edited 3 times, last by Baranovich ().

    • Henrypmiller wrote:

      Are you going to be greenstuffing on the transitions or leaving as is?
      Not sure yet. The cloaks and robes fit well enough that for tabletop height they look pretty convincing. But up closer there are gaps that I may want to fill in!
      There are many magic rings in the world Bilbo Baggins, and none of them should be used lightly!
    • A dwarf gyrocopter gets the GW Contrast treatment

      I painted up a Norba resin dwarf gyrocopter and used a fair amount of GW Contrasts on it. Really helped speed up the process. I undercoated it with generic gray spray primer because it makes a good base color for any kind of aged wood.

      I used Skeleton Horde brown Contrast over the entire copter which shaded all of the wood areas perfectly. I then did a single drybrush of lighter gray over the entire thing and the wood areas were done.

      I painted the canvas rotor blades and the canvas tail fin in a cream color and then used the same Skeleton Horde Contrast over them. That was followed by a drybrush of white over all the canvas areas.

      The metal areas were painted in GW Ironbreaker and then given a wash of Nuln Oil.

      I used some Guilliman Flesh Contrast over the dwarf's face and some Army Painter Soft Tone Shade wash over things like the canvas bag hanging behind the pilot. The metal pipework were done in traditional layer paints, all GW: A base coat of darker gold, then a red wash, then a drybrush of a lighter gold, and finally a drybrush of Runefang Silver.

      That was pretty much it! One word of advice though. The model comes with a base and a flight stand. But the flight stand is made out of resin and is VERY fragile and brittle! Seemed like it would snap in half at the slightest bump. So I replaced it with a piece of brass rod which is much more sturdy and secure.

      So this was a good example of quickly painting a model using both Contrasts and traditional layer paints.

      Happy painting my friends. :thumbup:

      There are many magic rings in the world Bilbo Baggins, and none of them should be used lightly!

      The post was edited 1 time, last by Baranovich ().

    • Empire battalion winter conversions Part 3: blankets, shelter, and firewood - the completed battalion!

      I just finished up the final details of my Empire winter battalion. Overall I'm pretty happy with how it turned out! The only problem is seeing one completed winter battalion now makes me want to do more! (Where I get the money from is another issue, lol). I had enough Napoleonic bodies and Empire bits to do a total of 26 soldiers with command which is a pretty decently sized unit.

      But as a test run I really could not have asked for a much better outcome.

      I finished off the soldiers by adding a variety of field gear, some plastic and some resin. I used quite a number of the knapsacks from the Napoleonic boxed set. Another lucky detail about the Napoleonic gear is that their knapsacks historically were covered in fur (I believe they made the knapsacks from cow hide with the cow's hair left on and turned to the outside, or something like that). So fur-covered knapsacks were perfect for a winter battalion. I also really like that some of the knapsacks have things like cups and spare shoes strapped to them. I also found among all the Empire bits I had several wine bottles that I strapped to the backs of several of the soldiers. No sensible soldier would ever pass up the opportunity to forage for some liquors or wines to help keep them warm!

      In addition I used a set of resin field gear bits. These range from small knapsacks and blanket rolls to slightly larger rolls that I used to represent soldiers carrying bundles of firewood wrapped in canvas. My thinking was that when marching on campaign in an hostile winter environment, having dry wood for camp fires would be a huge concern. That and the possibility of marching through an area barren of trees or where trees are not readily nearby. Having firewood on hand would be an absolute necessity for surviving an overnight encampment. Carrying a supply of firewood would also ensure that it would stay dry as opposed to having to stop to cut or gather wood which might be wet from exposure to the rain and snow, etc.

      This was a really fun project and ended up not being as difficult as I thought it would be. The Napoleonic historical bodies worked perfectly with the GW Empire heads as well as the Empire halberds and spears which were put in place of where the flintlock muskets were being carried on the original models.

      I can't wait to paint this unit! They already look like they are marching in a frigid, cold setting judging by how thoroughly they are bundled up! One aspect of the Empire heads that worked out great was that some of their hats are trimmed in fur, and others have flaps of cloth that come down and cover the soldiers' ears. It's the perfect look of soldiers on campaign who have altered their clothing and gear to make them warmer.

      Happy modeling my friends! :thumbup:

      There are many magic rings in the world Bilbo Baggins, and none of them should be used lightly!

      The post was edited 5 times, last by Baranovich ().

    • Baranovich wrote:

      Henrypmiller wrote:

      Are you going to be greenstuffing on the transitions or leaving as is?
      Not sure yet. The cloaks and robes fit well enough that for tabletop height they look pretty convincing. But up closer there are gaps that I may want to fill in!
      They look REALLY good! It would be worth your time to do the green stuff to go the extra level.

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    • More experiments with Contrast Paints, additional colors enter the mix!

      Hello all!

      I'm back with a significant new amount of Citadel Contrast Paint experiments. And I have to say the results have been very encouraging!

      A 9th Age member named Thannak recently posted a number of excellent posts regarding his experiences and insights with the Contrasts, and I wanted to enforce his points and add my own thoughts. Here are his posts:

      Citadel Contrast Paints
      Citadel Contrast Paints
      Citadel Contrast Paints

      In this post I expand my experiments into some grays, blues, and greens as well as altering shades of brown and also mixing several of the Contrast colors for various effects.

      After having used the Contrasts pretty extensively for about a month and a half now, I can draws some fairly confident conclusions and make some fairly solid assertions abut this line of paints.

      First and foremost, if you are facing the daunting task of starting a new army that's a hundred models or more, even hundreds of model YOU NEED TO GET THESE PAINTS. I don't work for GW, I don't get paid for endorsing their products. If this range of paints was a cheap gimmick or a ripoff I would be the first to tell you so. But I am here to tell you that this paint range is transforming the way I approach painting armies and it's given me momentum to start models in a way that I haven't felt for a long, long time. The flesh in particular is giving me a jump start on armies that before I would have gotten bogged down in having to do base coats and then struggling with getting shading and highlighting right on faces.

      These Contrasts paints are the real deal! GW does not lie about what they claim they can do. These things WORK!

      Now with that being said I want to break down the particulars of my experiments explain where the Contrasts work best and in what situations they are most useful. In addition I will explain where Contrasts are not quite as useful and where you can run into some problems if you don't pay attention to some basic rules when using them.

      To echo what Thannak said in his posts, I believe that number one and most important rule regarding these paints is that they be used as the FIRST and PRIMARY color you're going to paint the model in. Contrast paints should be used first, always, always and then additional details can be painted with traditional layer paints.

      As Thannak describes, since these act essentially like thick washes with a very high pigment level they are most useful when you can take a large brush and just liberally cover the model without worrying about getting it on other colors. This first Contrast color you can be as sloppy as you like because you're going to be cleaning up other details any way with regular paints.

      Another point that I agree with Thannak on is that in many cases the Contrast coat does tend to look better with at least one drybrush over it. This drybrush softens the overall Contrast effect and also can help to reduce the extreme contrast that may have happened in areas where a bit too much Contrast might have built up or pooled.

      However- I disagree with Thannak to some extent that the Contrasts generally look bad on their own. I don't think this is true in all cases. In fact I am confident that if you learn how to use the Contrasts correctly you can paint pretty darn near an entire army and use mostly only Contrast Paints, with the exception of a few finishing details here and there. The Contrasts also happen to give you the opportunity to do Non-Metallic-Metal effects over things like weapons blades and armor. Using gray Contrast over areas that are undercoated in tan will give an effect of grayish metal that is shaded but without having to actually paint those areas in actual metallic paint.

      It's also an important I should mention that the Contrasts will work much better on models that have better detail. That might seem obvious but with the Contrasts it's particularly true. I used Contrasts on Reaper Bones, North Star Miniatures plastics, and Reaper metal miniatures and got some pretty spectacular results. In comparison, using the Contrasts on Warploque Miniatures metal and resin miniatures the results varied from very good to just fair. I love Warploque's miniatures but some of their facial and other details tend to be on the clunky side. The Contrasts can struggle with this kind of clunky detail. But they do still work over it.

      So let's get right to it! Here's some of what I'm talking about.

      Remember guys, we're trying to help new players paint entire armies, not just a few skirmish models. How to get over that feeling that painting 80 or 100 models (or even 150-200 models) isn't an impossible task! Breaking through that impossible barrier of motivation to actually GET THEM DONE and get armies on the tabletop instead of only dreaming about it! Can the Contrast paints help achieve this. Oh my god yes! They can speed up painting immensely and get rank and file units with color and life achieved a good deal faster than using traditional layer paints.

      So here's what we're talking about. I painted about 60 of these guys to this stage in just an afternoon! This is nothing but two Contrast colors, Cygor Brown and Guilliman Flesh. The flesh one for the faces and the brown one for the primary armor/clothing color, followed by a single lighter brown drybrush over the primary Contrast color:


      Now remember, I did about sixty of these guys in an afteroon! And ended up with completed flesh features and completed shaded and highlighted primary armor/clothing color.

      THIS is what I mean by the Contrasts being a major "momentum builder". For a new painter trying to get an army done, you begin to see your models come to life fast! Two quick Contrast coats and the models have expressions and detail. You spend a couple days doing this to a couple hundred models and you're looking down at highlighted models that actually look like little soldiers! It takes you past that initial horrifyingly impossible mountain of primed gray or bare gray plastic and gets the army well through that phase and into the next phase QUICKLY!

      Now obviously you're not going to leave these models all one color of brown! That's not the point. Of course you
      're going to want to paint the weapons and helmets and some of the gear in different colors. But the main thing here is that MOST of the surface area of the model already has its life! For rank and file like Empire, Vermin Swarm, or Orc & Goblins, oh my goodness, Contrasts are positively a miracle for getting an army done this way!

      Here's the same thing achieving two different shades of Gray Contrasts, Space Wolves Gray and Black Templar:


      Now remember, I cranked out about 60 of these guys in an afternoon to this stage! Compare how long it would take to get 60 models to this stage if you had to paint all the flesh areas and the entire bodies in base coat layer paints and then do a shade on both of them, and then do a highlight on both of them. That's where the strength of the Contrasts are. It gets you to THIS critical stage of momentum in a fraction of the time.

      I know personally, this is where I have most of my difficulties in getting an army started. Those first few base coat colors where you lose your mind and it takes forever before you actually get to see any real finished colors! I believe that's where most painters give up on painting and eventually give up on miniature wargaming - those first few base coat colors that you have to do on hundreds of models. It's an endurance test and it's not fun.

      This is why eBay is filled with thousands of auctions for assembled but not painted or assembled and primed but not painted miniature armies. Piles and piles of dead plastic and metal. Somebody at some point built them with the intention to paint them all! Somebody somehow had enough motivation to sit there and glue them all together, and even had the additional motivation to spray them all with primer!

      So what happened next? What happened is that they hit the brick wall of starting the painting. It has stopped thousands of potential wargamers dead in their tracks. And the ultimate the goal is never reached. They bought the models. They built the models. And they even primed the models. And then BAM! Brick wall.

      For flesh features in particular - personally one of my biggest barriers and struggles to get through, well with the flesh Contrasts they just do the work for me! I can put one coat of Contrast over the faces and I don't have to guess and struggle with just the right amount of the right color of flesh wash, is it too brown or too pink? Is it too muddy, is it too bright? Does it look artificial? With the Contrasts it finish the faces in one decisive step!

      I also experimented with greens. Here's Orc Flesh that was diluted with some medium to achieve the same overall primary color effect in green. I also used some of the Orc Flesh and mixed in some of the Iyaden Yellow to create a more yellowish shade of green:


      Just like the brown and gray versions, obviously you're not going to leave the models in all one green color. But it gets you to a stage where you can see a highlighted, completed primary color and you can see the finished skin of the models' face.

      I will split my latest experiments into several posts so that it isn't one giant wall of text... :thumbup:
      There are many magic rings in the world Bilbo Baggins, and none of them should be used lightly!

      The post was edited 2 times, last by Baranovich ().

    • Citadel Contrast Fleshes and Greens really show their potential!

      When I referred in my earlier post about the Contrasts working better with models that have better detail, this example proves my point perfectly. This is I believe a Reaper metal battle wizard that has really nice, crisp details.

      THIS is what the Citadel Contrasts are capable of. This is literally nothing except an undercoat of tan spray with two quick Contrast paint applications, Orc Green/Iyaden Yellow mix, and Guilliman Flesh.

      Guys, I did this in about five minutes! Look at how fast I got to this stage. Yes, you will obviously want to paint the staff, hair and other details with separate layer colors. But look at the flesh at this stage. You don't have to do anything else to it! And of course you can add an additional drybrush highlight over the green robes. But they look AMAZING just as they are now! I mean look at how finely the Contrast fills in the tiny details of the face around the eyes and mouth. And look at how smoothly and nicely it shades and highlights the cloth in one step. There is absolutely no pooling, no areas where the contrast looks artificial or clunky. It's freaking beautiful.

      This is one aspect of the Contrasts where I disagree somewhat with Thannak when he says that the Contrasts on their own generally don't look that good and that they will always need help to make them look better. I think this example proves that to not be true.

      This is what I'm talking about when I say that the Contrasts can jump start your momentum to finish an army. And not just an army, but character models as well! With quality models that have good detail, this is what the Citadel Contrasts can do to a model in literally just a few minutes!

      You may disagree - but I don't think this is clunky in the least! For my personal taste and purposes, a model that looks like this is more than totally acceptable for my tabletop army!:


      There are many magic rings in the world Bilbo Baggins, and none of them should be used lightly!

      The post was edited 3 times, last by Baranovich ().

    • Apothecary White is AMAZING!

      My final post for this review is about one particular Citadel Contrast Color: Apothecary White

      Let me say here and now that many of us as painters would agree that one of the most difficult things to "get looking right" is shading white cloth! I know that many of you are experienced painters and you've got solid techniques for achieving shading on white cloth with traditional layers paints and washes. And I take my hat off to you for that!

      However, I am not one of those painters. I DESPISE trying to make white cloth look good. I struggle as badly as I do with making flesh look good with traditional layer paints.

      Anyone reading this, even experienced painters know how tricky it can be to make a white robe or a white cloak, or white trousers look like they are naturally shaded with that subtle, soft gray tone. It can easily get muddied if you use too much wash or use the wrong shade of wash.

      Citadel Contrast Apothecary White for me is an absolute game changer! It's a miracle! I'm not even joking! It is also transforming my historical army painting. I don't have to worry about doing a traditional shade on white trousers when painting American Revolutionary War British or Contintentals. Having to do hundreds of white breeches and waistcoats in a white base coat and then have to go back and do a separate wash and then a drybrush has quite seriously killed my motivation and momentum to the pointer where I totally put aside an historical army and it never got finished because I could not face doing that much white cloth in the traditional ways.

      Just a note here about the actual shade of this Contrast Color. A number of reviews on Amazon and Ebay by various gamers and modelers are complaining about this color because they say it's false advertising because it's actually gray and not white.

      I understanding technically what they are saying. However after I used the Apothecary White myself I realized instantly that they are not understanding what this color is intended to do, and furthermore they are not understanding what a "field white" or "soft white" actually looks l like. White cloth, when out in the light of day is going to have subtle, soft shading in the folds which will tend to look bluish gray. In addition, the white of the cloth itself will be reflecting daylight off it which will give the white a slightly bluish or grayish cast.

      Apothecary White is mean to be a shader that achieves a dull white color with soft, gray shading in the recesses of the cloth. What this amounts to is a final effect that is GRAYISH in tone and GRAYISH in shade but is actually a soft, white color with correct shading in the recesses.

      So what does that actually mean? Isn't white white and gray gray? If it makes the model's cloth look grayish, well that's not white, so why do they call it Apothecary White?

      This is why. Look at these pictures of some Revolutionary War miniatures. Look at their "white" breeches and waistcoats. These are all painted with layer paints with washes and/or drybrushing to shade and highlight the white. Notice that all of the white cloth has shading in the folds that's a gray color. Also notice that none of the "white" color of the cloth itself is pure white. All of it has a gray cast to it:

      All of these historical paint jobs are portraying "white" cloth. Yet they are all a shade of light gray in reality.

      That is what Citadel's Apothecary White is supposed to portray.

      Here are the first three models that I used Apothecary White on.

      The best example is my Warploque Miniatures Arcworlde Halfling Battle Chef! When I first saw this miniature I was in total despair because nearly the entire damn thing is white cloth! I mean he's a chef! He needs to be dressed in white! And of course I loved this model but knew that if I had to try to do the shading myself with washes that it was not going to look as good as I wanted it to.

      So I took a leap of faith and just went ahead and tried the Apothecary White on him. I also used Guilliman Flesh Contrast on his face and arms.

      Guys, I did 90% of this model in about three minutes. Two Contrast colors and his entire chef's uniform, face and arms were completely covered and finished!

      And more specifically, here's what the Apothecary White does over a sprayed undercoat:


      You can see what it does. It creates that dull, soft white with that grayish cast. Contrasts are transforming the speed at which I can paint characters. I mean to try to achieve this with layer paints and washes would have taken me an hour if not hours. The fact that I can get a model to this level in literally five minutes is extraordinary. And I don't feel like this model was "short-cutted" in any way. I still went back in and painted the frying pan a separate metallic color. I painted the eyes separately, and I also painted his cooking implements separately. But as I said, 90% of him was finished in minutes thanks to two simple Contrast colors!

      Next we have two metal wizards, I believe they are both Reaper if I'm not mistaken. For these guys I was thinking of classic wizards like Saruman and Gandalf from the Lord of the Rings. Again I wanted them to have white robes but in that soft, grayish, slightly worn tone.

      Once again Apothecary White does its magic!

      Bear in mind that this is Apothecary White at full strength. It can be easily diluted with medium to create a brighter white that has less of a grayish cast to it. But in either case you'll still get that nice gray shading that make white cloth look real on a miniature model.

      I mean guys, again I did the white cloth on both of these wizards in literally about three minutes. Another quick pass of Guilliman Flesh over the faces and again I've got the models well on their way to being done! And now I can go straight to picking out the individual elements of the models with layer paints, knowing that I've got the hardest part already done!:


      Here's the bottom line my friends. I don't care what level of painter you are, whether a brand new novice who's never painted before or a veteran with many years of painting experience. The fact is we're playing a game of massed armies that require many, many models. It's about getting ARMIES painted and getting them to the table as quickly as possible but still have them look really good, even amazing!

      My goal is to help painters get past that motivational barrier where they are staring at that awful pile of gray plastic and thinking, "how am I ever going to do this?"

      Contrast Paints do not take the place of traditional layer painting. They are a new, additional tool to add to it! They are in my mind first and foremost a crucial momentum builder for anyone trying to get that army of rank and file and character actually started and ultimately finished. The Citadel Contrasts provide a key boost to getting over that first hurdle. If you combine the best ways of using the Contrasts to their highest potential along with layer painting, you can get an army done much, much faster than if you just tried to push ahead with purely layer paints and purely traditional techniques!

      I have several new 9th Age armies on deck to be painted, all told about 400+ models! I've also got two historical armies on deck to be painted, another 400+ models. And now I've got a new set of tools that is going to help me get all of that done sooner! And that's more armies on the tabletop and less armies sitting on a desk unpainted!

      Happy Contrast painting my friends. :thumbup:
      There are many magic rings in the world Bilbo Baggins, and none of them should be used lightly!

      The post was edited 2 times, last by Baranovich ().