Trouble while undercoating

    This site uses cookies. By continuing to browse this site, you are agreeing to our Cookie Policy.

    The latest issue of the 9th Scroll is here! You can read all about it in the news.

    Our beta phase is finally over. Download The Ninth Age: Fantasy Battles, 2nd Edition now!

    • Trouble while undercoating

      So I found and old army painter primer I hand and the results where a chalk like coat with me being able to wipe the dust like paint from the model . So I thought it might be the primer since it was a couple of YEARS old , I bought an new one and while the surface of the miniatures after priming was nice I don't like the opacity of the colors it's more like a light grey than white. Could It be the temperature it's 2-3 degrees higher than the suggested ?
    • @Loooci i heard that those factors do not really affect the priming-process as much as people think.

      @R37r0 I also have very bad experiences with Army Painter spraycans. The paint comes out of the can like "dust". For the paint to bei 100% opaque you probably need a thick layer, or spray them twice. And when I painted my models, it was hard for me to get the very watered-down color to stick to the model. The models acted like "impregnated".

      Never again will I buy Army Painter primer.
      :VS: Nazi-Tech Army Project (coming soon)
      ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
      2nd Ed. Warhammer Fantasy Roleplay Blog
    • MyrdWyrlyrck wrote:

      @Loooci i heard that those factors do not really affect the priming-process as much as people think.

      @R37r0 I also have very bad experiences with Army Painter spraycans. The paint comes out of the can like "dust". For the paint to bei 100% opaque you probably need a thick layer, or spray them twice. And when I painted my models, it was hard for me to get the very watered-down color to stick to the model. The models acted like "impregnated".

      Never again will I buy Army Painter primer.
      Fair point @MyrdWyrlyrck, however the ones mentioned are all things i did struggle with in the past already.

      A good summary of how to use those spray cans is provided by the terrain tutor. Can only recommend to watch:

    • If you live in the USA and have a Hobby Lobby nearby, I suggest using the 40% off coupon on their website to buy a can of Tamiya Spray Primer (white or grey, but I prefer white). To use the coupon, just bring the site up and show the barcode to the cashier.

      To use the primer, I make sure humidity is proper, and I leave the can outdoors for about 30 mins to an hour (in the shade). I spray form no more than about 10 inches (usually closer) in quick pass-overs, several thin coats. I let this dry for about 15 to 30 mins before applying any more paint.

      It tends to go on smooth and great at self-leveling. You can see slightly through it at some points (I use sharpie to label specifics on the bases of my BA soldiers, so I know what they are, and can see the words after several coats). But it provides excellent adhesion for paint and clings to the plastic even if you do a simple green soak (to remove unwanted acrylic paint).

      I have had trouble with Games Workshop and Privateer Press spray cans. Haven't used Army Painter primer though. In the past I have used either Rust-o-leum or Krylon (don't recall exactly which) camo series BLACK paint as a primer. But only if the can is labeled 'Bonds to Plastic' as there is a similar version, otherwise same label but no 'Bonds to Plastic' marking which will peel off with light finger pressure on a plastic kit.

      The Tamiya stuff is expensive, but the coupon really helps make it an affordable purchase and it's the best I've found.