Bringin the Sass! Hey All, resident Ammertime (and tNa) noob here ready to Plog it up with some of my hobby progress. If you've been listening to the podcast you'll know that I, the proverbial Jon Snow, know nothing. But that doesn't stop me from having like, opinions man. Take 'em with a grain, and feel free to step in an help a brother out. Comments and crits welcome, I've got a lot to learn on both the hobby and gaming side of tNa. With no more ado, I'd like to share my first dip into the hobby.
#1 Sword and Board Warriors
I scored these from a buy and sell group here in Denmark. They were already assembled and based but I decided that I just had to paint behind the shields. And while I was at it, figured i'd magnetize the shield arms in case I want to go for another setup in the future. That way I can just get some re-cast arms and drop dual weapons or even halberds on the left arm and I won't have to paint another 25 warriors.
Before I start I want to say that I did way more work than was necessary on this batch. It took a long time, but I did learn a lot this first time through and experimented with a bunch of different paints and paint effects. I by no means recommend what I did, but I'm putting it in the record so I can look back in the future and go, 'what a flippin dumbass'.
So after prying off all the shield arms I primed them all with Army Painter Platemail Metal. I had the idea initially that I'd just throw a red ink or wash on them and be done with it but my first few tests had me looking in another direction.
I landed on doing the armor and shields with a watered down Army Painter True Copper and Rough Iron mix which took the homebrew wash mix I settled with much nicer. When I went to the hobby shop I picked up a bunch of different stuff from different brands to try them out. feel free to wag your fingers now. I made a mix of Army Painter Red Tone Quickshade (4drops) with Vallejo Game Wash Sepia Shade and Black Wash (1drop each) and two drops of water. I have since switched from water to Vallejo Airbrush Thinner or the Army Painter Quickshade Washing Mixing Medium as according to @Echunia using regular water can negatively alter the properties of the paint or effect.
Next I did some highlights with Citadel Dry Golden Griffon and Army Painter Shining Silver on the plate armor and another layer of my wash mix.
Bones and Horns were base coated with Army Painter Dead Black and then from about halfway Army Painter Zombie Skin. Threw on a watered down Vallejo Game Wash Sepia Shade and tipped them with a couple of layers of Citadel White Scar mixed with 1/3 water.
The Cloaks took a few color tests before I settled on green which I thought worked nicely with the reddish and coppery browns on the armor and shields. Based with Army Painter Mouldy Clothes but that was a bit too candy colored for me so I washed it with a combo of Army Painter Green Tone Quickshade and that Vallejo Black Wash. Finally a drybrush and some edge highlight with the same Mouldy Clothes Green mixed with Citadel White Scar.
Magnetizing the Shields was a nice break from painting. the holes where the arm sockets into the torso on these models is just shy of perfect for 3x1mm magnets so i did a little drilling and gluing in the sockets and a little filing and gluing on the arms and presto-- I had magnetized shields. The paint job was a little different. I decided that on top of the platemail base I'd put on a light layer of Vallejo Game Effects Dry Rust. the metallic shined through that way, then i did some dry brushing of Army Painter True Copper, highlights with Army Painter Shining Silver then my redish wash mix from earlier. Then on one of my trips to the hobby shop I found this copper oxidation effect from Vallejo called Verdigris and had to try it. It was a little too much when I put it on at first but worked great with a thin layer of the Dry Rust to finish it off.
Basing was fun. At some point @Henrypmiller convinced me I should rebase them all with these Premier Bases from Warbases.co.uk, i got some magnet holes drilled in which was nice. At the bottom i used a gritty Vallejo Earth Texture (Brown Earth) It was nice to work with, went on pretty easy and I could push it around to make little mounds of dirt which I then pushed some rocks I had painted into. Then I used Green Stuff World Mojave Mudcrack Crackle Paint now that stuff is great, paint it on and let it dry, the more paint you use, the bigger the cracks, with the brown earth underneath it also made a nice contrast so even small cracks pop against the pale top layer.
I finished with some Gamer's Grass Tufts. They have a nice variety of colors and sizes, I used three types on my bases, one that's red grass with yellow highlights in "wild" size, one that's brown grass with light green highlights in their "small" size, and this sandy grass in the "tiny" size. Mixing it up with these has been great and the smaller ones can be grouped together to make little trails or larger sections. It worked really well on my War Dias, but that's for another entry. Finally I went around the bottom edge with a neutral grey. I think it works well and doesn't take anything away from the minis or the basing.
The post was edited 3 times, last by Sassy Al ().
So after a long month of painting I ended up with 28 of those warriors but it took a looong time. At that point the other guys were all like, "bro, do you even contrast paint?", which admittedly I did not. So I went and took a crack at it. Gotta say I like it. (Hope you guys don't mind I'm being a bit verbose with this.)
Before I kick off on my second paint attempt I just want to bring up something else I learned doing the Warriors batch. And that is that I can't stand painting more than 7 minis at a time. When I went up to 8 I lost my frikkin mind I was so bored, the repetition was killing me. 7 is right on that edge where I'm still motivated. I have seen a lot of unpainted minis up for sale that are all assembled, some even primed. I get the feeling that people get real excited when they get new stuff. Then fall into a dark hole of wanting to assembly line all their minis. I think this is a mistake. Doing smaller batches felt good. Every time I got a batch done I could see progress on the unit and it motivated me to get another batch done. I also changed my mind a few times after seeing the finished version, if I had waited until i was done I never would have gone back and re-done all the cloaks on my warriors. I think if I'd been staring at 28 minis that needed edge highlights I might have quit right there.
#2 Heroes of the Dark Gods
After those warriors I needed to change it up. At that point my copy-cast minis had shown up from sneaky-town and I had almost a whole army to assemble and paint sitting neatly in little bags in the corner of the room. As mentioned above I discovered I like to small batch things as it gives me a sense of progress, so I grabbed a few hero models and got started.
2.1 Demon Front Man
The model is originally called an Exalted Deathbringer but when I look at him all I see is a heavy metal lead singer with a giant axe as a mic stand, leg up on the monitor, playing to the crowd. So now I want to make a Battleshrine that's a medieval rock no roll stage. It's a silly dream, but it's my dream.
This was my first step into the realm of Citadel contrast paints. and I'm pretty happy with the result. Lord knows it's a lot faster than what I was doing with the warriors.
For those of you that don't know, contrast paints work well when painted over a very light basecoat. For him I used Army Painter Skeleton Bone with a zenithal highlight of Army Painter Matte White. What can I say, I watched some youtube vids. Is there enough contrast between those two colors for the whole zenithal thing to be of any use? no idea. But I enjoyed it.
Since this guy's a Hero-type I wanted to give him a little extra height so I also took my first crack at shaving cork into rocks. Once I'd cut a few flat-ish pieces of the cork (approx 2mm in depth) I used my fingers to pick off bits and then glued the pieces together to make them taller. Initially I tried working with a thicker piece of cork but I found it difficult to reach the desired effect.
There were some really neat skulls and faces on the character's costume that I wanted to do in a bone coloring. I used that Vallejo Game Wash Sepia Shade with 1:1 water mixed to get the desired base effect. In the eye and nose recesses I used an equally watered down Vallejo Game Wash Black Wash to add some extra shadow and then lightly touched the high points with some watered down (also 1:1) Army Painter Zombie Skin Paint. On the teeth I only used the watered down Black Wash so they'd pop out. Around the edges I used Army Painter Quickshade Purple Tone with a bit of water. The Pants I did one coat of Citadel Contrast Shyish Purple, it was really dark, I didn't see much in the way of contrasting. So I had to do some edges and highlights with a mix of Citadel Layer Paints Genestealer Purple and White Scar.
On the Metals I used the Citadel Colour Contrast Space Wolves Grey and highlighted the edges with Army Painter Shining Silver. I think Space Wolves great is the best contrast paint I've tried.
I used a few other contrast paints on this, Snakebite Leather for leather straps and with a bit of contrast medium it worked great on the horns as a lighter brown and tan. I also used it on the hair tufts. I did highlights after with Army Painter Phoenix Flames and Daemonic Yellow on the hair. I used Basilicum Grey Contrast with the contrast medium 1:1 to do some of the details on the Axe, and full concentration on the axe shaft.
The Skin I did with Citadel Contrast Blood Angel Red, but found it, like the Shyish Purple to be too dark It settled in great in the gaps between the muscles but didn't let any white through even in the high spots. Maybe if I'd mixed it with the contrast medium I'd have liked it more but it was fun doing highlights and the work went so quickly I didn't mind.
Oh and here's a little close up of the first attempt horror show for his eyes and teeth
I painted over and tried again several times. Still not great in the end but fine for the tabletop i think.
Any tips for eyes and teeth would be particularly appreciated.
The post was edited 13 times, last by Sassy Al ().
I also realize that I have another dwarf themed project growing during Corona times! In addition to paints, I also lack a trimmer during lock down
The first four Kestrel Knights.
As I have been saying for ages, my old kestrel knights are made of the LOTR great eagles and are really awkward to travel with and play with. They are just too big! I decided to build these so that they can rank up both 4 and 3+1 wide.
Models are the GW kestrels, Dark eldar "green goblin sufer dude" legs, a mix of parts for the bodies and arms with Dark rider shields and spears.
The trees I made from scratch. There is a tutorial in 9th Scroll Issue 19
@Henrypmiller love those birdies with the bespoke trees. They rank up so well. I suppose I'll be on the receiving end soon enough.
Now back to the business, I wanted to keep working on my heroes post from earlier. The success I found with my first attempt at contrast painting went well i thought, and much faster than my work with the warriors so I thought, why not rally on?
#2 continued Heroes of the Dark Gods
I'm working on my brevity but I still want to share my process, so I'll try something a little different on this post. We'll see how it goes.
2.2 Chosen Lord
Chose lords are pretty cool both in appearance and action and this mighty fellow has got some epic headgear. So I was excited to get working on him.
But there was a minor issue, I'd already primed the mini with the same Army Painter Platemail weeks before (all except the head which i had pinned and primed Army Painter Matte White). This was something of an issue for me because I really wanted to use the Space Wolves Grey Contrast for the armor after seeing what it had done on the Front Man's axe blade. So I re-sprayed it with matte white and got started.
Contrast Paints I used and where:
Space Wolf Grey - on the armor, I did edge highlights with Army Painter Shining Silver.
Blood Angel Red - on the head and cloak, I also used AK Interactive Ultra Matte varnish on the cloak, it gives it a velvet look that I like.
Snakebit Leather - the belt, the wrappings of the spear, the hilt and wrappings of the sword, and I mixed 1:1 with the Technical Contrast Medium to do the horns.
Darkoath Flesh - the spear's blade guard.
Basilicum Grey - the shaft of the spear, and 1:1 mix with Technical Contrast Medium for the boots.
The bone I did in the same manner as the on the demon I posted previously.
Army Painter Rough Iron - the base coat for the spear's blade.
Army Painter True Copper - used as the base for the armor highlights, the first highlight of the spear's blade.
Army Painter Quickshade Red Tone - painted over the spear blade.
Army Painter Shining Silver - edge highlight of the spear blade.
I've got 1 more hero coming up to wrap up this post.
Since my hobby is relatively monotone during lockdown @Sassy Al encouraged me to put up some of my previous stuff.
Right before I left my hobby stuff before lockdown I finished my first chosen knight of gluttony
This bad boy is made out of a goregrunta pig from AoS and a Blight king. The kits fit surprisingly well together, with minor greenstuffing required on the back. The pupils of the pig demonstrates the eye painting technique we discussed on the last podcast episode. (Essentially make the eye more black than white)Previously Echunia
Did you get a lightbox or are you just using a White background?
I Think you need to do a little more work highlighting and shading the skin tones to make it pop.